Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi all!

 

My friend recently gave me a free watch because the clasp is broken. I know close to nothing about watches, from my research it is a 'Foldover clasp'. I have attached an image, the whole portion in the red box is missing. I was wondering if there is any way to fix it for cheap, without buying any replacement parts. Just some sort of rig to keep it together

 

Thanks for the help!post-239-0-48349000-1402715071_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum.

If you look closely at the part you have highlighted in red there is a small tang bent upwards between the two eyelets. If the part above that this clips into is not broken off, slight bending on the tang might be all that is required to allow it to lock into the piece above. Also/and the curvature of the highlighted part may require adjustment by careful bending to achieve the correct curvature to allow the clasp to lock.

If the clip on the upper part is broken off completely, you will require a new clasp. In this case a temporary fix to allow you to wear the watch would be a small rubber band that can be rolled over the clasp to hold it together meantime.

Edited by Geo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-37-0-65171200-1402730853_thumb.jpgHi and Welcome to the forums.

Regarding your bracelet it's not really worth the trouble of repairing, on Ebay from seller 99ac you can buy a new stainless steel bracelet for around £2.  I have bought one from him and the quality is very good, takes a week or so to arrive as it's coming from Hong Kong. If you do order one make sure to order the correct width for your watch case.  There should be a picture if I've got it right.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...