Jump to content

Waltham 1899 17j won't wind fully keeps slipping


Recommended Posts

Hi all, this is my first post so please be gentle, I can wind it up about 4 turns and then something slips and looses all its tension and I wind it again and it does the same thing, so I brought a new mainspring from cousins uk out of the GR book page 195 under 16s 1899 witch lists it as part no 6991-TR as a 0.19 thickness, in my E.& J. SWIGART CO book it lists it as 4 different sizes 0.19  0.18  0.17  0.16  0.15, when I put the new spring in it done the same thing so I striped it down again thinking winding pinion teeth and crown wheel are badly warn but they are not !!, so with the crown wheel removed I tried to wind it up with a screwdriver and it still slipped, so I tried to close the spring tighter you guessed it SNAP, so I got another one but an 0.18 thickness put it in and still the same so my question is what am I doing wrong ??? do I still need to squeeze it in or should it be ok straight out of the box.

Many thanks Kaz

Thu Jun 09 20-04-55.jpgThu Jun 09 20-07-30.jpgThu Jun 09 20-08-43.jpgThu Jun 09 20-10-53.jpgThu Jun 09 20-14-09.jpgThu Jun 09 20-16-14.jpgThu Jun 09 20-20-43.jpgThu Jun 09 20-24-35.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, syfre said:

what you have is a Waltham motor barrel, the problem is at the other end, the spring slips at the barrel hook.

The end of the spring must be shaped to match the barrel wall, some explanation here :

http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?68116-Waltham-Motor-Barrel-Mainspring-will-not-catch

Thanks for the reply, this is a pic of the actual spring, it all looks spot on to me but I know nothing, do you mean bend it in a bit the last 5 mm ?, I can't see how it can jump out as it is hooked it and the more you wind it the tighter it becomes.

many thanks for your help KazFri Jun 10 16-42-38.jpgFri Jun 10 16-41-17.jpgFri Jun 10 16-46-12.jpgFri Jun 10 16-46-21.jpg 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like these conversions. I know a lot of people feel they are a Frankenstein watch but in my opinion it's nothing different than putting a seagull movement in a aftermarket case and making your own dial. Hey, Tiffany never made their own watches. I think these watches allow people to wear a beautiful movement again. Im in the process of making one as well as a gift. Good luck your watch looks great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎17‎/‎06‎/‎2016 at 10:23 PM, jdm said:

It's really nice. How do you wind it? Where did you sourced the case?

I drilled a hole in the side and put a stem in a pin vice and just wind it like a key wound pocket watch.(hunter movement)

the case I came across on eBay with some other stuff, I can't believe how accurate the watch keeps time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎17‎/‎06‎/‎2016 at 10:53 PM, Joeydwatchmaker said:

I like these conversions. I know a lot of people feel they are a Frankenstein watch but in my opinion it's nothing different than putting a seagull movement in a aftermarket case and making your own dial. Hey, Tiffany never made their own watches. I think these watches allow people to wear a beautiful movement again. Im in the process of making one as well as a gift. Good luck your watch looks great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks I love it, and a good talking point down the pub. :biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like these conversions. I know a lot of people feel they are a Frankenstein watch but in my opinion it's nothing different than putting a seagull movement in a aftermarket case and making your own dial. Hey, Tiffany never made their own watches. I think these watches allow people to wear a beautiful movement again. Im in the process of making one as well as a gift. Good luck your watch looks great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply, this is a pic of the actual spring, it all looks spot on to me but I know nothing, do you mean bend it in a bit the last 5 mm ?, I can't see how it can jump out as it is hooked it and the more you wind it the tighter it becomes.

many thanks for your help KazFri Jun 10 16-42-38.jpgFri Jun 10 16-41-17.jpgFri Jun 10 16-46-12.jpgFri Jun 10 16-46-21.jpg 

I think this is the best I am going to get it what do you think guys

 

Dial up

WP_20160613_16_50_06_Pro.jpg

Stem down

WP_20160613_16_52_16_Pro.jpg

Is this a size 0 pocket watch that you put into a wristwatch case?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
    • Any info on this watch would help. I know that it's sterling from London but I could not match the o letter date or make out makers mark.  Is the movement maker Camberwell or Lamberwell?   If I give it a twist it will run for about ten seconds.  $45 yard sale find.  I don't think that I want to service a fusee.  What quality is it?
    • Hello As I am learning, does anyone have any recommendations  on Repair and sourcing in Gold Coast, Qld, Australia ? eg old Seiko coil 4002920 Thanks. Cheers, Ken
    • Is this what all you're looking for? 
×
×
  • Create New...