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Fixing Hands


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Hello,

I got this watch in an essay contest many years ago, and it got put the the washer and dryer a few years back. Im wanting to try to get it running again. As far as I can tell the second hand has just came off (broken off?). It's not running either, so I hope its just in need of a battery. Any guidance, advice, tips or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Please and Thank you

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The first thing you need to do is open it up and look inside at the movement to see what damage has been done. It looks like a flip off back so that shouldn't be a problem.  Post a photo and we can guide you on what action to take. In some cases a complete replaceable movement could be the least expensive option.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Look very carefully with loupe or magnifying glass to find out cal or movement number, looks like a miyota, PCxx?? (used in most inexpensive quartz), once you have determined movement number, just search on web, lots of new movements relatively cheap from supply houses, (gaskets too) there's a small button or detent to remove stem/crown, press with sharp pointy object and pull out stem, once stem is removed, entire guts can be removed, now it's about taking off hands and dial, warning: some of these dials are glued on during assembly process, can be like surgical procedure to get them off without damage!! I have done more than a few of these and it's nice to have something that you have fixed for remembrance.

If it's been through the wash, chances are movement is 'toast', but who knows, try a batt, you'll need it for the new movement anyway. Update us with your efforts and if you need any more help, good luck!

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Thank you for your input! Originally I had started this post to get the hands put back on, I got that and got a new battery and it was good, then it started either losing time or stopping/starting, so now I figured I would just attempt a replacement. 

So, as far as the part number goes, I can read this: No Jewels Unadjusted/Japan/S110/PC21A
 
I found a few matches for that on Esslingen.com, but it looks like there are a few different ones by the same #, any advice?
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5 hours ago, CLS said:

So, as far as the part number goes, I can read this: No Jewels Unadjusted/Japan/S110/PC21A

It's a Hattori, readily available and inexpensive. As long as it measures the same as old one (Height and Width) and dial legs/feet match up it should not be a problem. Esslinger is a good source. Cas-Ker Co also stocks. Remember there may be some adhesive under the dial, so be gentle when attempting removal.

HATTORI PC21, 17.8mm x 15.3mm, Height - 3.15mm, Battery 377 

DIAL FEET  5:00/11:00/7:00/11:00

Your gasket looks okay from pic, (to me)

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Good deal! Found the movement, and I I'm going to get an assortment of gaskets ( it looks ok in the pic but it was actually in half a dozen pieces).

and there was some glue but not bad, I got it off without breaking anything. That being said, I do wish I had just found a pro to take care of this. If hate to mess it up now. 

Let you know when I get it finished. Thanks again

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on Esslinger's site, this movement calls for: 

  • Requires watch hands: hour 1.20, minute .70, and sweep second .17 mm

Is that a typo, because those ratios don't look anything like what I'm finding in their watch hand kits...

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I got my order today: movement, hands, crystal, gasket, hand inserting tool etc.

Once I got it assembled I couldn't get the stem to wind to set the time. The stem turns, but the hands remain stationary. 

At one point the second hand ticked, then it starting just jumping back and forth in one place.

What would cause that? 

 

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15 hours ago, CLS said:

Once I got it assembled I couldn't get the stem to wind to set the time. The stem turns, but the hands remain stationary. 

Is the stem engaged fully, (pulled all the way out?) I like to put batt in and replace second hand before recasing, just to confirm operation. Is it possible dial is making contact with hour/minute wheels? Preventing them from turning.

 

15 hours ago, CLS said:

At one point the second hand ticked, then it starting just jumping back and forth in one place.

It's tricky to get hands aligned properly and set on wheel(s) so they turn properly and don't catch each other. I think Marc has video on this site for hand installation,  granted it's for a different watch, but theory is still the same. Guessing.... but second hand may not be tight enough? or too tight?

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OK it's officially finished! I took it to a watch repair shop in the mall. Apparently it was a combination of improperly inserting the hands and the hands being butchered to heck. 20 minutes and $20 later, good as new. Ironically the hands were the original problem, and the only thing I had to take in and pay to have done. I did get some simichrome and polished it up and put in a new crystal. 

I definitely have a greater appreciation for the craft now, thanks a ton for all the advice and info!

finished watch.JPG

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Good for you! It never hurts to have a 'pro' look at something that has you stymied as long as they don't want to charge you up the wazoo for the privilege. Often valuable info can be gleaned from inquiry. Many time jewelry stores, who send most everything out to watchmaker, will quote exorbitant prices for quartz swaps, look at how much your total cost to redo this watch and weight that against your willing to spend to have someone else do the work. For the $20 you spent to have hands set, (not including movmt, glass, gasket, etc) its probably worth it. I hope this experience will encourage you to take on future projects.

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    • Yes I understand that. What I’m asking is, after the hands have been fitted, it’s been checked that the hands do not touch etc. then I need to remove the stem to fit the movement in the case. I have the push type, I need to turn it upside down and push the setting lever post and pull the stem out. But of course the dial and hands are in place and I have a glossy dial with lume dots and I do not want to cause any damage while it’s upside down pushing on the post of the setting lever.
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