Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

I am restoring an old Omega Geneve with Cal 601 and while I was disassembling the movement I neglected to note the position of the 'pressure spring for sweep seconds pinion' against the leaves of the actual pinion itself.

 

Should the spring provide pressure to the pinion against the pinion cock (underneath the leaves) or shall it be positioned providing pressure against the top of the leaves (between the cock and the leaves) so to push the pinion towards the watch dial?

 

Any clarification would be appreciated.  Thank You

 

 

Posted

Thank you!  Cool thats how I installed it.  Amazing what happens when you stare at something a little while and apply logic. :-)  Thanks for the info.  Much appreciated.

Posted

It's also quite important to get the correct tension on it, too much and the amplitude will drop, not enough and the second hand will have too much play in it.

Posted

Roger that. I didn't adjust it, but I am achieving 271deg amplitude in most positions and 278 with the sweep pallet cock removed. Does that sound correct or shall I try to equalize the springs pressure to squeeze out a few for degrees. FYI the mainspring is new

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Once the hands and dial are fit you can do a visual check. If you hold the watch in the 12 up position and watch the second hand come down from 12 towards the 6 position. As it pass's the 6 and starts to go up back towards 12 it should be a constant sweep and not judder back as it fights gravity, you can also give it a slight tap to make sure the second hand still doesn't drop back a second or two. Repeat this as it pass's 12 to make sure it doesn't jump forward slightly.

presuming you have already checked for up and down end shake, which would be obviously not enough tension then the amplitude seems good, it's not even dropping in the hanging positions, although this might change when you get the hands and dial on its perfectly normal.

For future reference a good test for the tension is to spin the train before you put the pallets in by slightly winding the mainspring and then release the tension on the pinion friction Spring, if the 4th wheel turns a couple of times then normally you are somewhere near the correct friction. If the wheels spin loads of times the friction is too much, and if the wheels don't spin anymore you haven't enough friction on the Spring.

  • Like 3
Posted

Thanks. Good technique on the check. Much appreciated. I neglected to mention the numbers I mentioned above are with dial and hands on. I'm going to recheck with the gravity method to confirm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...