Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Nice article, people wonder why a complete refurbish on a watch costs so much. I use two step white/red rouge. Red for really scuffed up and scratched and finish with white for high gloss.

Posted

No, not that it is available to me. Years ago I started working at a jewelers, the red/white "rouge" as its called, was what I learned with, mostly karat gold, rings, bracelets. The red can damage if used to excess.

Posted

Thank you Endeavour, exactly what I've been looking for. The article is really informative & helped me with my list of what to buy next.

Posted (edited)

Thanks DJT2, but it is Colin who has the knowledge, expertise and he did all the work........ I'm just the messenger-boy here, but I'm glad I forwarded the link....  ;)

BTW, instead of a lath, I'm using a polishing machine, something like the one on the picture, but much, much older. 1960's or so :)

 

polishingmachine8.gif

 

Edited by Endeavor
Posted

YesI have used this method but I do not have room for a buffing machine so use a Proxon (similar to a Dremal) .

The buffing polishes he uses I think I purchased from Cousins

Posted

yes, really like this website you shared here.:thumbsu: 

the information in the article is very helpful for me. I have learned the right to polish the watch. Because i will clean the watch regularly. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

These videos are important to look at before you start polishing.

 

Morten

Edited by MortenS
  • Like 3
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • First of all, thank you for the pdf file of the book on how to replace a gem. So, if there is a problem with the ruby in the movement, should I buy a new or used movement and replace it? When I watch videos on YouTube of people fixing used watches, I feel like there should be a way to buy a gem. Is there no way to buy it?
    • I suppose @donutdan is not forced to earn his living by repairing watches.  I suppose he does it as a hobby and wants to gain experience, to get better in watchmaking and time is not the issue. Then @donutdan should rather try to repair the damage instead of swap parts from a maybe intact other movement. Swapping parts is not watchmaking. And often swapped parts are not the expected solution of all problems. All mentioned damages are repairable. Frank  
    • Yeah I figured that one out when I googled and realized that my spindle is actually from Horia. It's smooth with no screwable cap.
    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
×
×
  • Create New...