Jump to content

Help With The Winding/setting Mechanism Of A Hamilton 986A


Bill3

Recommended Posts

I have taken apart a Hamilton 986a, cleaned the parts, oiled, and reassembled the watch. Reassembled, that is everything except the winding/setting mechanism. The clutch lever fits in the grove in the clutch. I can wind the mainspring and even though the hands are not on, the cannon pinions seem to be moving. However, if the slightest pressure is exerted on the winding stem, it slips out. I cannot find a way to make the winding stem stay in.

Any and all help and advice will be appreciated. I have attached pictures.

post-844-0-05853900-1454724259_thumb.jpepost-844-0-92982400-1454724283_thumb.jpepost-844-0-01851600-1454724310_thumb.jpe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's hard to see from the pictures. What should happen is for the peg on the setting lever to be engaged in the groove in the stem, and then you tighten the setting lever screw.

Sometimes when the movement is out of the case, the stem can be pushed in too far and when you tighten the setting lever screw, the peg is still on the major diameter of the stem and so doesn't tighten properly. It's also possible the the peg on the setting lever is worn or broken. Can you remove the setting lever and show a picture of the other side?

S

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ what Stuart said plus...

1. Could be the nub on the setting lever is worn. The setting lever will need to be replaced.

2. Could be the groove on the step has worn allowing the nub on the setting lever to slide out of the groove easily. The stem will need replacing.

3. Could be the hole in the movement plate is worn and the stem has too much side shake. Much harder to resolve. Possibly find a scrap movement or turn a new custom stem with a larger diameter to fit the hole snugly.

Often times it can be a combination of 1 & 2

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stuartbaker and Mark, thank you for your input. I think you are right. The groove on the stem looks good with edges that are not worn. I am going to remove the setting lever and check the "nub". The setting lever is very difficult to install, but that is what must be done. I have a donor watch, so if necessary I will take the setting lever from that watch.

I am so close, yet so far from turning this into a working watch. When I get the stem in and wind the watch, THE WATCH RUNS. That is exciting for me because this is the first watch that I have torn down all the way and put back together. Somehow I am going to have to get around this winding problem.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stuartbaker and Mark, thank you for your input. I think you are right. The groove on the stem looks good with edges that are not worn. I am going to remove the setting lever and check the "nub". The setting lever is very difficult to install, but that is what must be done. I have a donor watch, so if necessary I will take the setting lever from that watch.

I am so close, yet so far from turning this into a working watch. When I get the stem in and wind the watch, THE WATCH RUNS. That is exciting for me because this is the first watch that I have torn down all the way and put back together. Somehow I am going to have to get around this winding problem.

Good luck Bill :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
    • Hi   Find attached parts/repair notes for the JLC 911,  might be useful. JLC_JLC 910, 911.pdf JLC_JLC 910, 911 Repair Notes.pdf
    • Hello and welcome to the forum Dan. Used to know Middlesboro quite well, that was twenty years plus ago. Attached a little reading to get you started. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    • for the most part no. Each individual watchmaker and/or shop had their own system. One of the shops I worked at basically had a reference to a page number in a book. then there are some shops that do no markings at all as they keep their records on a computer and they don't have to mark the watch. Usually if somebody is marking and they've service the watch before you'll see those next to each other. then as far as anything resembling a standard goes at one time the American watch and clockmakers Institute assigned all of their members a number. but that was a very long time ago and I doubt that they are using it anymore.
×
×
  • Create New...