Jump to content

Casio Aq-222 No Sound


bacon1937

Recommended Posts

I recently found a Casio AQ-222 in a collection of watches I bought. After installing a new battery the watch works great, the only issue is that the alarm doesnt sound, the icon simply flashes on the screen when the alarm should sound.

I've tried the AC reset a few times without results. When I initially opened the watch there was no battery or spring connecting the piezo on the back case, I'm not sure whether this model actually should have a caseback spring in it or not, and if so where it would connect on the movement.

If the spring is required is there anywhere to source this part (or piezo)? Just for my own info, I also wonder the best way to test the piezo itself (I have a multimeter if that helps).

post-1434-0-21371500-1449856268_thumb.jp

post-1434-0-75748800-1449856295_thumb.jp

post-1434-0-88851700-1449856320_thumb.jp

post-1434-0-96553300-1449856343_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi bacon,

 

I'm sure someone with more knowledge on Casio watches will chip in shortly.

 

As for my own (limited) experience, Casios are at best a lost cause. I haven't found a place to source parts and unless you find "other party" movements inside, (think Citizen or even Seiko), there is nothing you can do to fix them...short of going discrete troubleshooting -- which I lack the knowledge on digital/electronic watches -- and specialized tools for this matter.

 

In any case, if it is lacking a spring to make contact with the case, maybe a pen spring or similar might be a good substitute, IMHO. Another way is to find a donor watch, but I myself hate to destroy a "maybe fixable" watch to make another one work...to me, it is like asking a small kid --- you know they are almost human :)  --- to donate an organ!

 

Anyway, I wish you luck with your search and project and please, keep us posted of your progress.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am sure there will be a little spring that sits in the movement and connects to the piezo on the caseback . The little spring in the cigarrett lighter has saved me many time.

My guess is that it should be in there .

post-644-0-46509200-1449865872_thumb.jpg

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea about the cigarette lighter spring, I also thought that it might be the black hole since it was the only one that stuck out to me as being different and would possibly fit a spring. I'm going to try and dig something suitable out and give it a try.

I've seen someone on a youtube video dismantling a watch springbar

 31PrtgLo2jL._SX300_.jpg

and using the internal spring as a replacement, although that was on a newer g-shock and they had to drill the hole bigger.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea about the cigarette lighter spring, I also thought that it might be the black hole since it was the only one that stuck out to me as being different and would possibly fit a spring. I'm going to try and dig something suitable out and give it a try.

I've seen someone on a youtube video dismantling a watch springbar

 31PrtgLo2jL._SX300_.jpg

and using the internal spring as a replacement, although that was on a newer g-shock and they had to drill the hole bigger.

A springbar is a great idea . And as bobm12 says there are different sizes. U only need a small spring from the movement to the piezo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Came here to mention the spring bars, if you have any 1.2/1.3 spring bars of any type (standard 1.5 spring bar springs are usually too big), it's usually easily enough to pull one apart or cut it open, then just cut the spring to length, done it a couple of times, works perfectly. Drilling shouldn't be at all necessary,  after all you can get 1.0 mm spring bars, and no alarm spring is going to be smaller than springs in those. 

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...