Jump to content

International Dial Co., Usa


Recommended Posts

Hello, I have been in contact with a Mr Robert Miller of the above co. with regard to refinishing a dial. I have been unable to contact him since 21.10.15, an answer phone takes a message but no response. Has anyone heard anything that might explain this? Up to the date mentioned contact had been extemely good.

regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi All, International Dial contacted me 2 weeks ago to say the dial was done and they would post after payment (Paypal).It arrived today and looks good (see attached). I chose to have a "generic" finish similar to the original but not an exact copy, but with the ORATOR name, 17 Rubis, swiss made and antimagnetic printed. The hands are the elegant originals, a bit pitted. I finished the chrono hands in orange as I found them a bit confusing, as are the pushers, the start is at 1400, stop at 1600 and return at 1600, slightly non intuitive.

The watch has a Landeron 48 movement and is keeping good time, its gone from a basket case to nice watch, happy ending I think. post-1266-0-91020500-1453911751_thumb.jp

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are the marking-extensions at 3, 6 and 9 minutes like the original? And what is the purpose for that? I only ask because I have never seen that before.

Yes they were common on old chronographs.

In the past telephone calls were charged in intervals of three minutes and the markers made it easier to time phone calls and get value for money. By that I mean if you went over three minutes by a second or two you were just as well talking for another two and a half minutes as you were going to pay for the next release minutes anyway.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

that was a great choice on the dial finish. it is really beautiful. i love old chronos. they have such character.

on another note, i want to thank the OP for following up on this thread. i've been on other forums where you never hear the outcome. good on ya'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • then just as I want to see if there is any differences I looked in the balance staff book. So basically with the exception of the super shock whatever that is it looks like they're close enough in length  they should be fine.      
    • Thats what i have scott. Read back a little i posted a few pictures. Basically i put a small quantity of around quarter inch in the bottom of a tin and heated it on a leccy oil burner. It doesn't need much heat, stuck the jewels to the lid with bluetack and the fumes coat the surface pretty quickly although the first i did i left for 5 hours but it does only take 5 mins if that. The coating does seem to come off easily so i am not sure if it actually works, but the stuff is really cheap and worth an experiment or two. I have seen that mix somewhere but vapour coat is supposed to be better.
    • Would be interesting to see how well steric acid compares (or not) to the various epilames out there - anyone know the mixing ratios and solvent(s) etc for the steric acid?
    • I assume you're using 9415? the concerned with 9415 and I'm attaching a PDF from Omega is too much can cause a decrease in amplitude. This is why you look at what they do they go to extreme lengths to put extremely tiny quantities. so as you've discovered proper lubrication of the escapement increases the amplitude. We've seen it on this group where people are having typically newbies issues and I will ask if they lubricated the escapement the usual answer is no they had not because and once they did they saw spectacular improvement. one of the amusements with lubrication tends to be so many variations. For instance I was in a classroom once and the students all came from for the most part accredited schools in watch repair. So the instructor asked how did we lubricate our escapement's and I don't remember the actual quantity but it's really quite amazing how many people can interpret slightly different ways of doing the same ask. Of course the instructors method was the approved one. This was the place a drop of oil on the impulse face of the exit stone. Allow one third of the teeth to go by and place another drop then another third and your escapement should be lubricated. But sometimes and yes it will show up in the timing machine you'll see in your regular line because if the oil didn't transfer all the way around to the other stone that does cause a issue with the timing machine. Oh but when I was in school we were using 9010 as 9415 did not exist yet although 941 did which is an oil recommended for escapement's. it has to be dissolved in a proper solvent with the right amount of concentration as you want a microscopic layer on whatever your treating. My understanding is the vapor process is the very best but the vapors are not good for human consumption. The reason why the vapor process is nice is that it puts a very very thin coating on versus dipping in a solvent which can vary depending upon the concentration.   8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins.pdf
    • A modern restorer would probably try to inject adhesive as suggested and then weight the repair down. Some damp might have caused the bulge originally.  Traditionally the veneer would have been sliced and glue eased under the two flaps then again weighted back down and refinished once it had cured.  It doesn't look like just an adhesive issue, more than likely expansion of the veneer, worse case it needs a slice taking out. Try some gentle heat on it first , inject glue and weight, to see where it goes.
×
×
  • Create New...