Jump to content

Oris Aquis Big day date rotor/hammer fell off.

boogeez

By boogeez
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
Posted

Hi.

I have an oris big day/date which I bought brand new last 2019. I rarely use it except for occasionally winding it from time to time. In short, I kept it in my watch case most of its life with very infrequent wrist time.

 

Anyway, I used it this week and I noticed that it stopped after 2 days of wearing it more than 12 hours per day. I tried to shake a little bit to make it start but stops after a few seconds. When I tried shaking it for 1 minute, I noticed a clanking sound inside which I never heard since new. When I opened the back since It's out of warranty I noticed the rotor was loose and when I tried to screw it in I can't lock it.

Can I do this on my own or bring it to oris?

Any suggestions appreciated.

20241226_120513.jpg

20241226_120505.jpg

20241226_120439.jpg

20241226_120356.jpg

20241226_120342.jpg

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Klassiker
Klassiker

I must admit, this has got me beat. I have no likely explanation why these two screws will not release on a movement which is only 5 years old, in decent condition, with no signs of rust. Sorry to ask

AndyGSi
AndyGSi

Yes it is. Yes looking closer again it does just look like a metal fracture. Maybe you'd be better having someone look at it for you.

Neverenoughwatches
Neverenoughwatches

I'm sure i read somewhere that they did make for Oris at one time. Oris were always originally in-house makers then sold out  some time ago and as far as I know are fairly recently back to in-house bu

Posted Images

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted (edited)

Trying to work out how it was fixed in the first place.

It almost looks like it was glued in place?

Edit

Is the screw still in place on the weight?

It looks like the boss has broken off the automatic bridge.

image.png.dc12355b86918d1fcf8ba9382f42b773.png

Edited by AndyGSi
boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi.

Thanks for the reply. Yes. The screw is still in place with the weight/bearing.

My watch was never opened since I bought it new from the watch shop with 3 years warranty until 2022.

Do I have to change the whole thing or just glue it back?

boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The raised part in blue ( boss?) is missing. Maybe it ia still attached to the screw. Can I try to remove it and just glue it back with superglue?

It still works when wound and runs +2spd

image.png.dc12355b86918d1fcf8ba9382f42b773.png

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
34 minutes ago, boogeez said:

The raised part in blue ( boss?) is missing. Maybe it ia still attached to the screw. Can I try to remove it and just glue it back with superglue?

It still works when wound and runs +2spd

I expected that's what's already been done once before looking at the residue on your photos.

Depending where you are and what experience you've got it's a simple fix to replace with a new bridge.

image.png.d8d27a6d1e8f4334f0c2439d7932fedc.png

boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

I expected that's what's already been done once before looking at the residue on your photos.

Depending where you are and what experience you've got it's a simple fix to replace with a new bridge.

image.png.d8d27a6d1e8f4334f0c2439d7932fedc.png

Wow!!! That means it was not brand new when I bought it.  tsktsktsk.

Lesson learned.

 

Is the sw200-1 bridge interchangeable with the sw220-1 ?

My experience is limited to mostly seiko watches strap change, bezel change, regulating speed via timegrapher and hammer changing, change watch hands and face, change crown and stem.

Will this be enough for me to pursue this on my own?

Edited by boogeez
add more details
HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
Posted

Maybe the resolution on my phone is not high enough, but I don't see any glue residues. It looks more like metal fatigue or defective brass.

Was the watch dropped, received any hard bang or abused in any way? If not, Oris should replace this as it is defective manufacturing. 

boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

Maybe the resolution on my phone is not high enough, but I don't see any glue residues. It looks more like metal fatigue or defective brass.

Was the watch dropped, received any hard bang or abused in any way? If not, Oris should replace this as it is defective manufacturing. 

The watch was never dropped/bumped.  I only very occasionally wear it and stays inside my watch case most of the time. 

I also follow instructions on the amount of winding needed to start it.

Very rarely used and pristine outside condition including the metal bracelet.

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, boogeez said:

Is the sw200-1 bridge interchangeable with the sw220-1 ?

Yes it is.

image.thumb.png.79e47a9eef7ea905ac0d0d8ad6ca1f9a.png

4 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Maybe the resolution on my phone is not high enough, but I don't see any glue residues. It looks more like metal fatigue or defective brass.

Yes looking closer again it does just look like a metal fracture.

image.png.477cc129b2ca8aab3a63a47ac4a72b01.png

7 hours ago, boogeez said:

My experience is limited to mostly seiko watches strap change, bezel change, regulating speed via timegrapher and hammer changing, change watch hands and face, change crown and stem.

Will this be enough for me to pursue this on my own?

Maybe you'd be better having someone look at it for you.

  • Like 2
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Yes it is.

image.thumb.png.79e47a9eef7ea905ac0d0d8ad6ca1f9a.png

Yes looking closer again it does just look like a metal fracture.

image.png.477cc129b2ca8aab3a63a47ac4a72b01.png

Looks like the bearing has sheared off at the shoulder 😥, thats a real shitter for the OP. Bit of a weak design there, a black mark for Sellita unfortunately, why not a full thickness bush ?

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Looks like the bearing has sheared off at the shoulder 😥, thats a real shitter for the OP. Bit of a weak design there, a black mark for Sellita unfortunately, why not a full thickness bush ?

It depends if this is Sellita or do Oris have them made elsewhere as it's only based on the SW220-1?

Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

It depends if this is Sellita or do Oris have them made elsewhere as it's only based on the SW220-1?

I'm sure i read somewhere that they did make for Oris at one time. Oris were always originally in-house makers then sold out  some time ago and as far as I know are fairly recently back to in-house but maybe not with everything they make. 

Besides that Oris have for some time now RED trademark auto rotors.

Yes just had a look the 752 is based on SW220-1 which is an ETA 2836 clone. I'm sure this is the Sellita caliber that got a pretty bad rap with quite a few design flaws . In an interview with one of the main men , he admitted that they had made some mistakes .

It appears all the Aquis models have movements based on a Sellita engine. Interesting that they describe it as a based on movement 🤔 come on Oris !! ...lets be more honest and accurate about what you tell folk shall we...It's a Sellita movement that you've modded 🤷‍♂️ .

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 2
boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Yes it is.

image.thumb.png.79e47a9eef7ea905ac0d0d8ad6ca1f9a.png

Yes looking closer again it does just look like a metal fracture.

image.png.477cc129b2ca8aab3a63a47ac4a72b01.png

Maybe you'd be better having someone look at it for you.

Will do that after the holidays. I also follow a watch thread here in the Philippines which names the best  technicians for swiss watches other than the authorized watch repair shop. 

I just thought that I can just easily replace it on my own to get my hands wet on sellita movements.

Thanks everyone for the good advice.

 

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, boogeez said:

Will do that after the holidays. I also follow a watch thread here in the Philippines which names the best  technicians for swiss watches other than the authorized watch repair shop. 

I just thought that I can just easily replace it on my own to get my hands wet on sellita movements.

Thanks everyone for the good advice.

 

It depends what screwdrivers and other tools you've got to have a go yourself.

Page 14 shows what's required to swap everything over along with lubrication points.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/8400_SW220_1_22_20150223.pdf

 

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, boogeez said:

Thanks.

Is there a difference between moebius 9010A and 9010B besides the color?

The B does just indicate that it's blue.

1 hour ago, boogeez said:

Are there any jewels I need to remove and replace from the bridge? 

If that will be the case, I'll definitely send it to someone experienced.

The bridge if bought new from a supplier should come with jewels.

  • Thanks 1
boogeez Member

boogeez

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hi.

I just convinced myself that I'll try to do this. I just have a couple more questions.

1. Can I just tap out the rotor bearing with the screw on since it came off with the weight and can't be removed?

2. Are the rotor bearings of sw200 and the sw220-1 compatible?

3. Is the bearing friction fit?

20241226_120439.jpg.ef7929fcfacaff5a5d6bd0e827c7e5b9.jpg

Edited by boogeez

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • Malocchio
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...