Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi all,

This may be a silly question but I haven't seen it addressed before.  I have an old Vostok 2809 which could use a new balance jewel,  not the capstone.  I'm really terrible at finding parts, but someone from Ebay suggested I could just remove the hole jewel from the setting and replace it easily.  Is that possible, or am I better off finding better places to shop?

I'm not even sure if this is a real Incabloc setting or a Russian "homage."  If so, I'd also love to buy a dozen replacements for the springs, for um, reasons.

The jewel the brass ring is 1.4mm wide and pivot diameter 0.3mm.

Thanks!

 

Edited by NigelTufnel
Posted

Changing the chaton jewel?  I've never tried it, not sure how you would get the jewel out without damage.  Might be easier to try to find if the parts on common on cheaper movements, then look for one of those for parts.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Imagining they use a jewel size that corresponds to standard replacement sizes (on diameter and hole), there's still the issue of the jewel height. In a shock setting that would be strictly controlled, to provide the proper gap with the cap jewel. Jewels aren't made to a fixed standard, and a few hundredths difference of height could be make-or-break. That's aside from the issue of of pressing out the old one and in the new one without damaging the setting.

Posted (edited)

I would suggest that you try to find some donor movements on eBay. Often these Vostok movements can be had for very little money and in the process you get spare parts for future use.

Before the war in Ukraine, there were many Russian sellers of these movements, but as of the war, they have disappeared. I guess Russian watch collectors are evil people. Anyway, still a lot of Ukrainians selling these movements, but they are in my experience a lot more deceitful than the Russians used to be so be observant!

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
Posted

On some old pieces that use an uncommon shock setting, I have converted them to Incabloc. I know it's best not to alter things, but I always managed to get one in without having to ream the plate or something (sometimes requires turning up a thin bushing though). So if down the road it's discovered that it's some sort of museum piece, it could be brought back to originality 😉.

Posted
14 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

I have converted them to Incabloc. I know it's best not to alter things, but I always managed to get one in without having to ream the plate or something

You find the pivot sizes are usually compatible too, or do those ever need modification?

Posted
3 minutes ago, mbwatch said:

You find the pivot sizes are usually compatible too, or do those ever need modification?

For a given Inca reference, there are several hole jewel sizes available. So supposing you find in your stock of parts a "bloc" that would be a good fit, but the hole jewel is over/undersize, you can get or find another that would be correct.

 

Inca's website has lots of useful into. "Sus" means upper, "sous" is lower; if you look at the different models on their site the refs end in /0. In practice you add -10 for example for a hole size of 0.10mm. I have some here straight from the factory, "sous", 100.935.20.000/0-10. That's a lower bloc, with 0.10mm hole. The odd thing is on their site, this ref is listed as 935.20/0. My guess is the first 100 is the hole size in microns... the rest?

 

I have some older (like 50 years old) factory packaging where they simply write the hole size before the ref, like 9.104.12.262, where the first number is the hole size. If you know the ref you want, a good supply house will figure it out. All the current models are on the link above.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, VWatchie said:

I'm not sure but the following lot could possibly be worth making a offer if you're looking for spare parts.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=315358235604&_sacat=0

I guess that You have never seen 2809. None of watches in the lot has this movement. Actually, there is not plenty of them.

@NigelTufnel, how did You decide that the hole jewel of the setting is for replacement? Is it broken?

Posted
2 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

I guess that You have never seen 2809. None of watches in the lot has this movement. Actually, there is not plenty of them.

@NigelTufnel, how did You decide that the hole jewel of the setting is for replacement? Is it broken?

Hey @nevenbekriev - Under a microscope there appears to be a hairline fracture that doesn't quite touch the pivot hole yet.  I have a replacement from a donor, but it's suffering from very odd pitting on the inside face, and salt-like debris which Naptha and IPA have failed to completely remove.  It's much better though.

Posted

In the oldest USSR jewels You may see things that look like debris or pitting, but they may be actually in the structure of the stone. What the results from free oscillations test are? Is there noise from the balance pivots rotating in the jewels?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, nevenbekriev said:

In the oldest USSR jewels You may see things that look like debris or pitting, but they may be actually in the structure of the stone. What the results from free oscillations test are? Is there noise from the balance pivots rotating in the jewels?

No noise, and the 'cracked' jewel passes the free oscillation test just fine.  I think I'll leave it alone for now and save the donor jewel (pitted) as a spare for now.  Next is the new mainspring which should arrive tomorrow.  I'm super excited.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...