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Posted

Hi There...anyone got a parts diagram for a Tag Heuer 7T32B...Need one urgently as I have a part that I cannot find where it goes...Please

Posted

Is this right? I thought a 7T32 is a Seiko (Hattori) chronograph movement.

It sure is, and it's the trickiest movement I have ever worked on. The gears were like sequins and there are about twenty of then!

Posted

Hi There...Do you know if any parts diagrams are available for this movement. This watch was stripped by someone and then handed to me to assemble and there is only one tiny part that I cannot find a place for it. Have you worked on the Tag SQ4820 ? Maybe if I mail you a photograph of the part you may be able to identify its home on the movement.

Posted

Need one urgently as I have a part that I cannot find where it goes...Please

What is the part that you can't fit to the watch, can you take a picture let us see?

Is this a replica TAG with an automatic ETA movement? If it is is there a calibre number in the area of the balance?

Posted

I am afraid I don't have a cross reference to know which movement Tag uses in various different models. But looking at a picture of this watch it has sub dials at top, bottom and left. This is indicative of a Valjoux 7750 movement. If you could post a picture of the inside then we could confirm this.

If it is a 7750 then the data sheets are available on the ETA website, or cousins. And I even have a strip down on my YT channel.

Posted

There is no number at all on the movement except on the back of the watch. I will try and take a photograph of the part and post it. Thanks for all the help to date.

Posted

It would be most helpful if you could post a pic of the actual movement as well as the part you have posted. :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Hi There,

 

I have attached a photograph of the partially stripped movement. The part in question does go somewhere in this area of the stripped movement. Thanks for the help.

post-146-0-29593700-1396961753_thumb.jpg

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    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
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