Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got a non-running ladies Seconda (oval, 17 jewels, "129393" on case back, "SU" on bridge & "1301" on barrel wheel) which on opening showed the click area to be badly rusted. It looks (see photo, taken after cleaning) to my inexperienced eye like one end of the spring has broken off (I'm assuming one end sits in the hole in the barrel plate & the other end (anti-parallel) - the missing bit - comes up through the slot in the click itself.  What're the prospects of finding a replacement? Oh, and I managed to sheer the head off the screw securing the barrel wheel so I need a replacement for that too! I know the watch is of little value but I'd like to get it working if I can.

20240605_102159.jpg

Posted

If you post a pic of the whole movement (both sides if possible) then it might be possible to identify it which would make tracking down replacements or a donor a bit easier.

Odds on that it is Russian though.

Posted
32 minutes ago, rjenkinsgb said:

Thanks, rj. Been looking at these & similar. One description says they can be bent to shape which I'm assuming I won't be lucky enough to avoid having to do. So does one anneal before (& after) ? My spring is only ~1.5mm across & the wire seems less than a hair's breadth thick so that'd be a very interesting task for a novice!

Apologies for imposing further but any views on the practicality of finding a replacement barrel (Ratchet?) wheel screw?

49 minutes ago, Marc said:

If you post a pic of the whole movement (both sides if possible) then it might be possible to identify it which would make tracking down replacements or a donor a bit easier.

Odds on that it is Russian though.

Thanks for your interest, Marc. 17176081749178638589136029790682.thumb.jpg.b479392047c481aab6518781dac01eae.jpgHere's what it looks like at present: clearly from the "evil empire"!

17176080899745060639680118541918.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Marc said:

If you post a pic of the whole movement (both sides if possible) then it might be possible to identify it which would make tracking down replacements or a donor a bit easier.

Odds on that it is Russian though.

It's a Chaika, sorted my sister's a few years ago.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Yes, Chajka (Чайка)1301 . The click spring can be made of spring steel wire. No annealing needed for such steel. Such wire are the springs for violin and guitar, but this spring is thinner than the thinnest violin string. Spring from another movement can be reshaped, as suggested.

Such movement can be obtained for less than 50 p in Russia, but I am not sure if this is an option now.

The broken piece of the barrel screw can be unscrewed with hard sharp pointed tool. The screw is not tightened now, as the head is not there, so it should unscrew without resistence.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

Yes, Chajka (Чайка)1301 . The click spring can be made of spring steel wire. No annealing needed for such steel. Such wire are the springs for violin and guitar, but this spring is thinner than the thinnest violin string. Spring from another movement can be reshaped, as suggested.

Such movement can be obtained for less than 50 p in Russia, but I am not sure if this is an option now.

The broken piece of the barrel screw can be unscrewed with hard sharp pointed tool. The screw is not tightened now, as the head is not there, so it should unscrew without resistence.

Thanks for the info, Nev. I'd got the barrel screw out straight away: it was indeed quite loose. 

Posted
9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Aw Nev, teach me please 🥲                     " get stuffed " in Russian 😅

?Que

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Aw Nev, teach me please 🥲                     " get stuffed " in Russian 😅

Hi Rich,

I am not sure what You ask for, to translate something in Russian? No problem, but I don't understand the meaning of 'get stuffed'.

OK, asked Google and I think I gоt it. May be ''Заткнись!''

Edited by nevenbekriev
Posted
15 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Hi Rich,

I am not sure what You ask for, to translate something in Russian? No problem, but I don't understand the meaning of 'get stuffed'.

OK, asked Google and I think I gоt it. May be ''Заткнись!''

I'm just being silly Nev.  I can teach you some slang English.  " get stuffed " means  " go away " in a non polite way 😅 . But I did google it for a Russian translation.  I used to have a Russian neighbour he used to teach me a few phrases. 

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Waggy said:

You need to find someone who plays guitar, the strings make excellent spring material

image.png.192d474f32305c26fd7b2baaf096138c.png


 

15 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

...The click spring can be made of spring steel wire. No annealing needed for such steel. Such wire are the springs for violin and guitar, but this spring is thinner than the thinnest violin string. ...

9 size guitar string is 0.22mm, 10 is 0.25 and 11 is 0.28 as I remember.  The violin thinnest string is 0.2.  I often use these for repivoting... The Chaika click spring should be 0.12 -0.15

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

There are all kinds of guitar gauges

For example these are:

image.thumb.png.402a443882fc1a30f41512bb935ae22a.png

8 = 0.008 inches = 0.20 mm

11 - 0.011 inches = 0.28 mm

And so on....

Note:

Gauge/1000 = inches

Inches x 25.4 = mm

 

Maybe too thin in the case of the click spring, but worth keeping in mind for future spring makes..... my son goes through set of strings a month, so lots of spring material in my spares draw.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...