Jump to content

Vostok 2409A balance issue - disconnected hairspring

Flamingo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Flamingo New Member

Flamingo

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I'm relatively new to watchmaking. Having serviced a few watches already, but I so far dodged more involved repairs. I was working on a nice Vostok watch. I have disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and lubricated the movement. One of the last steps were to reseat the balance complete. The balance didn't want to move freely so I had to take out and put it back a few times. I could have been too hard with the part or maybe the hairspring wasn't connected well enough. All in all, the hairspring got disconnected from the balance cock. My main problem now is that I don't recognize the substance/adhesive that the hairspring was connected with originally. It's a relatively tidy job so I think it was done in the factory but it's not shellac. I don't know if this can be warmed up so I can offer back the hairspring or should it be removed and replaced with an equivalent adhesive substance. The hairspring is OK as far as I can tell. Please kindly help me formulate a repair plan for this part.

I would like to repair this part myself. I can easily source a replacement balance complete but I would like to learn how to deal with this.

And now the pictures.

 

image.thumb.png.fc000c866666db64206ec5bf2513f336.png

 

image.thumb.png.455692a86a3fa1721704ea98abd8650f.png

 

image.thumb.png.0da9374dd6087dcb9770c4e9bd4a4475.png

 

image.thumb.png.1ef763ea97084dc30d5a502a58166b1d.png

 

image.thumb.png.236c5c63a74b4d8b5d5fa41d29caf59f.png

nevenbekriev Distinguished Member

nevenbekriev

Posted
Posted

The substance is 'hot glue' which is used in 'hot glue gun' and comes in long sticks 8 or 10mm in diam. But it is needed only to heat the studd and put hte end of the spring in the gap with the melted glue. Use soldering iron with sharp point to do the job. Don't touch the glue with the iron, but heat the stud from the other side of it.

But... You spring is deformed - it is not in plane. It is streched as a funnel. I guess You have detouched it from the balance and tryed to stretch it in the reverse direction in order to restore it, and You have 'overdone' it. Now it is stretched again but in the oposite direction, which is as bad as it was in the beginning. The spring MUST be in ONE PLANE so no coil touches anything and no other coil.

  • Like 1
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Hairspring may cone/ funnel due to either  magnetism or physical deformation , if you just let the balance hang under its own weight, the coil might just return back to the flat it was, some times coning is due to magnetism, in which case let it hang then demag. 

As for the substance in the stud , soak in acetone to disolve it, clean and reshellac or use epoxy 5 glue, ladies nail colour works fine as well.

 Just make sure you don't over glue/ shellac  as the extra glue may migrate to the coil, causing problem.

Good luck 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • TimeWerks
      Omega sweep second pinion friction spring - correct tension IS important

      By TimeWerks · Posted

      Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • caseback
      Clock newbie

      By caseback · Posted

      After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • JohnR725
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • JohnR725
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...