Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey watch peeps,  hope we are all well. Its not often i ask but i need some help or just thoughts really what to do here. I have ideas but someone might come up with something that works better. So the Timex belonged to my sister's husband who passed away last year. She bought him this when he started his career as a prison officer over 40 years ago and he wore it every day for work until it no longer ran. So obviously it has extreme sentimental value, the plan was for me to get it running again so she can pass it down to her daughter who was born around the same time that her father started his job. Taking the back off, I've run into a problem, corrosive damage from the battery that has been in there for years. The circuit board might be too far gone and the + battery tab is missing broken off, but I'm attempting to clean it up using a carbon stick and a small paintbrush to apply contact cleaner. Struggling to identify the movement which dates to 1979 presents the problem of finding a donor, there is a number of 880 on the inside of the case which might relate. Any advice on cleaning up and tab repair  would be greatly appreciated, i dont want to remove the circuit board unless absolutely necessary as its soldered to the coil which is very different to ones I've come across before and has a huge magnet sat on top of it.

20240128_141925.jpg

20240128_141859.jpg

20240128_141844.jpg

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Link to comment
Share on other sites

here is the watch in 1979 catalog .   It been awhile since I worked on that movement but recall not having much luck once corrosion has done damage.

your best bet maybe to find a donor watch.   

 

image.thumb.png.6e34d4df1ad6a015d1fc4c35d0bed8b7.png

ok, now its not me bugged that I don't remember the movement number.   Will do some cobweb clearing!

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

here is the watch in 1979 catalog .   It been awhile since I worked on that movement but recall not having much luck once corrosion has done damage.

your best bet maybe to find a donor watch.   

 

 

ok, now its not me bugged that I don't remember the movement number.   Will do some cobweb clearing!

 

Thanks Mo i did find some reference to 800 series but they were electronic with  balance wheel. The coil shape is unusal to me, circular instead of cylinder with a big magnet stuck on a bridge slapped on top of it which i removed and then had real fun getting it back on. Cleaned up the circuit and supplied some power and the rotor is twitching like crazy . Both battery terminals were broken off so not sure what do yet. The model is 57319 and the dial says Taiwan . I might have found a donor , but not working, the code on the chip is different though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

M43 is the movement type

1 minute ago, JerseyMo said:

M43 is the movement type

hmm - or maybe m55.  ah come on Mo clear you brain

ok, it has the calendar that makes a difference.  it is M56

 

found one for ya

image.thumb.png.62b349f35e7438b68b103f62d7d87836.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

It looks very different Mo, could it be an alternative model ?

 

41 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

M43 is the movement type

hmm - or maybe m55.  ah come on Mo clear you brain

ok, it has the calendar that makes a difference.  it is M56

 

found one for ya

image.thumb.png.62b349f35e7438b68b103f62d7d87836.png

No i think thats the right one m43

11 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi @Neverenoughwatches  I think it’s an m43.   You may be able to get more info on. Heritage 1854 web site . They seem exclusively Timex. Have a shifty.   As far as I know there is no manual   And it was made in Taiwan.

Looks right thanks WW

Thanks Mo and WW, this gives me something to work with now. Its alive but very jittery. 

52 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

M43 is the movement type

hmm - or maybe m55.  ah come on Mo clear you brain

ok, it has the calendar that makes a difference.  it is M56

 

found one for ya

image.thumb.png.62b349f35e7438b68b103f62d7d87836.png

Thanks mo I'm amazed there are unused movements the m43 and m56 look identical .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
19 hours ago, CYCLOPS said:

its the one, no second hand either, put your calendar on it and done, now you will need a stem and crown....

It is that one but I'm in the uk, only non working ones here. The one in the watch needs a lot of repair, both battery terminals were snapped off. There is some movement from the rotor which is just a switch to move the minute hand once with each activation of it. Its very inconsistent when I supply power, i think I've traced it to the coil, very high resistance reading. Its looking like i need a donor movement. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...