Jump to content

To glue or not to glue?


Recommended Posts

To glue or not to glue?

I've obtained quite a few movements and watches where a previous watchmaker has used glue to secure a part. I have been appalled at the way that the glue has been liberally applied, and in many cases glue affected the running of the watch. Often seen a part just glued so that it looks as though all is correct.

However, I have seen many top class watchmakers secure a part with a glue dot or similar to great effect, and at no visual determent.

Therefore, I have hopefully taken their format.

I have a Seiko Bellmatic 4004a that I have been working on. I did feel that at my skill level I could service a watch of this standard. It has been a trial of attrition and a great learning  curve. Mark's video and others have helped enormously. I am nearly there. Just the automatic winder and casing to be done. I have really enjoyed the build done up to this level, but I will admit errors. ,At least four times rebuilt due to wrong spring in wrong  places. (There are 4 very similar springs, but dissimilar enough to do there own specific jobs. Hence the learning curve). 

I am nearly there. Would that it were so.

On the placement of the alarm wheel I needed to replace a holding plate. I had noticed on purchase that the plates and the screws were missing. I obtained a set from a donor. No problem. 

First holder and screw attached. Second plate OK. Screw thread too small. Using the microspore. No flaming screw thread. Aaaagh!

The holder is attached to the base plate. Two options?

Start again and use another base plate. I do have one that has good threads.

Or

Move on and secure the holder and screw. I have chosen the latter. My selfish reason? I would like to wear this watch soon. I will of course re-do the service at a later stage with a replacement base late.

So, To glue or not to glue?

This has been done with the smallest amount on the holder and into the thread.

IMG_20231029_105136a.thumb.jpg.59f2d9582efd75c7b4bcbeddc1d84a47.jpg 

 

Should be wearing the watch by the end of the week. Looking forward to showing it in the 'What's on your wrist' section.

Regards

Ross

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling, Grammar, more information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rossjackson01 said:

However, I have seen many top class watchmakers secure a part with a glue dot or similar to great effect, and at no visual determent.

Really, who (name names Ross), and what parts did they glue?

You could drill and tap it to the next size screw.  I haven't tried tapping such small screws, but the screws will just about self-tap in brass plates.

Which plate is it?  Will there be any load on the screw? Loctite thread lock is OK to hold a loose screw in place, but not great if there's a load which may pull it out.

1 hour ago, rossjackson01 said:

First holder and screw attached. Second plate OK. Screw thread too small. Using the microspore. No flaming screw thread. Aaaagh!

What's microspore ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back in my days I'm referring to the 70's & 80's only two things would I ever use a glue, the first would be the proper cement for the crystal and that would be the recommended stuff, the other was on the tip of the stem to secure the button to the stem, but I never did that to all watches, if the button was a snug fit to the stem glue would not be used.  I don't recommend gluing in screws that is bad practice. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Back in my days I'm referring to the 70's & 80's only two things would I ever use a glue, the first would be the proper cement for the crystal and that would be the recommended stuff, the other was on the tip of the stem to secure the button to the stem, but I never did that to all watches, if the button was a snug fit to the stem glue would not be used.  I don't recommend gluing in screws that is bad practice. 

Yup! I agree.  As my comment in answer to Mikepilk above 

Update.

Decided to do a complete re-service. Doesn't feel right when I have all the correct parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

don't recommend gluing in screws that is bad practice. 

IMG_0909.thumb.jpeg.952d6515d63cab05b64c2887c5615f1b.jpeg

Yes, short of some kind of outer space vacuum cold welding these case screws were bonded in. The next service the screw heads were sheared off…the next service it’s up to me

Edited by rehajm
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

At least four times rebuilt due to wrong spring in wrong  places. (There are 4 very similar springs, but dissimilar enough to do there own specific jobs. Hence the learning curve). 

Ross, take lots and lots of pics as you disassemble - before you remove a part, then each time you remove something. Here's just one of about 30 I took when I first did a 4006A, to show spring positions, and one with notes added. If you take enough pics, and make notes on the pics if necessary, you can't go wrong.

Image-201112135939.thumb.png.5ac345b47e3209d44d272a4e4e9c2f80.png

Movement-00008.thumb.jpg.9432cb43b1209ae9487cdfb902b08927.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever tried epoxy metal in watches? - Something like QuickSteel or Quick Metal Putty

I have done this on larger things (vintage bicycles) 

There you fill the hole with the putty and then stick a bit of grease on your screw and then push it into the putty while turning slightly as if actually turning the screw in.   Once the epoxy has cured you should be able to remove and replace the screw.

This trick works well for screw holes where there isn't space to drill and tap to the next size.
 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...