Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

About to go crazy with my restauration of a EB 8170 since I am unable to get the train of weels to align. I am begining to think that there is some part is either faulty or missing, however they all look fine under the microscope. 
 

Does anyone know what the problem could be or know where I could find a service manual? Or maybe it’s just to try over and over again util they align and spin freely?

I managed to align them alright but then the escapewheel did not spin freely and the coverplate almost looked bent. I am really confused since it is my first EB restauration and it looks fairly different to the seikos or fhf’s that I’m used to work on. 
 

Any help is much appreciated!

Posted
10 hours ago, Nilbobaggins said:

EB 8170

Always nice if you give us a picture because people might recognize it usually versus numerically or may have worked on something similar and off for some help for that.

It looks like about all of the find is the parts list at the link below. Then if you're confused by the initials that's because watch company brands are usually two or three letters which can translate into other letters used by the watch material houses. For instance the second link does have the EB and translates to the name BETTLACH Which for the purpose the material houses just the first three letters of its name.

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=BET_8170

https://calibercorner.com/ebauches-bettlach-caliber-eb-8810/

Now it's interesting about the parts list above is nothing's been discontinued? That doesn't necessarily mean it's available but typically when I look at things there discontinued which implies this is probably something newer. Often times newer translates to know tech sheets although if we get a parts list there probably is a tech sheet someplace may be but I doubt there would be a service guide

Then the parts list came from this website

http://cgi.julesborel.com/

Then based on what I'm seeing these watches are cheap and they were assembled by machinery so machine would put all the gears in place in the plate would fall in place at all the pivots would go in like magic and if you try to put them in yourself anything like this is usually a real pain in the ass at least that's been my experience.

 

Posted
14 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Here is the schematic diagram to EB 8170

I'm glad you found that because it conflicts with everything else I was finding it looks like that's a standard easy to assemble Swiss lever.

Posted

Ah sorry, forgot to attach the pictures.

Sadly I think that the schematic is wrong, as it does not look similar at all..

It could be the case that it was machine fit and therefore it is just a matter of trying again and again until it works, thanks  

 

IMG_2550.jpeg

IMG_2549.jpeg

IMG_2547.jpeg

Posted
56 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Unfortunately it is a cheap movement with no consideration for servicing. All you can do is keep trying. Have you tried tapping the movement holder?  

That is a good tip!

Thanks

Posted

 Go on to Dr ranfft's site.

See 🧐       Examples, year: signature; shock system.

it says maney calibs might have came with 8170 designation, google for the pic of each variant, Your watch might very well be 8155 or 8117,.......  but came with  8170 designation.

Diagram to each calib might not have been made available. 

 Please make a habbit of taking pix as you disassemble, for your own use and future references on this forum.

Rgds 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...