Jump to content

Beat me with your rhythm stick


Recommended Posts

Just finished servicing a Seiko 5740. The first watch I've done which was working (after a fashion) before I touched it. It had a 2.3ms beat error which needed to be addressed, but was nervous because 4 movements ago, my screwdriver tip slipped off the stud carrier (quite stiff to move) mangling the hairspring. After a bit of thought (and a nappy change), I used a triangular diamond file to cut a V shaped notch in the end of a 2.5mm screwdriver blade (a lot more difficult than it sounds) and I have to say, the tip (provided its placed accurately using a loupe) feels much more stable and less likely to slip. Are there any other techniques or tips I need to be aware of? Its not quite Ian Drury, but its close enough!! 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are T profile screwdrivers, which i am waiting on to try, but the feedback i have seen is positive, see the difference below:

IMG_20230804_140444.thumb.jpg.5104517f59f1387cf53a38e0d8953b84.jpg

They are made with a very fancy and crazy expensive sharpener:

IMG_20230804_140708.thumb.jpg.1bef0fe6fafb6883149c9ef87387b8b2.jpg

The potential good news is that I am designing a 3D printed version of the sharpener, so if you have access to a printer and can wait a week or two (need a new cooling fan for my printer) I can share the files needed to print one.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, DrHWO said:

Just finished servicing a Seiko 5740. The first watch I've done which was working (after a fashion) before I touched it. It had a 2.3ms beat error which needed to be addressed, but was nervous because 4 movements ago, my screwdriver tip slipped off the stud carrier (quite stiff to move) mangling the hairspring. After a bit of thought (and a nappy change), I used a triangular diamond file to cut a V shaped notch in the end of a 2.5mm screwdriver blade (a lot more difficult than it sounds) and I have to say, the tip (provided its placed accurately using a loupe) feels much more stable and less likely to slip. Are there any other techniques or tips I need to be aware of? Its not quite Ian Drury, but its close enough!! 

Hit it Doc 👍your new tool sounds like a good addition. Personally i use pegwood to do this. I tend to prefer wood on metal ( steady boys and girls 😄 ) for these sort of applications. My choice here being that steel on steel has little friction and the impact of steel damage is much higher than timber.  One reason ive started to look at various timbers for jewelling and staking accessories. Another example is the shaped tooth pick kif spring removal tool compared to purpose manufactured ones. I have a few of those and they can be a bit aggressive on the spring and dont especially grip that well ( low friction contact ). Just throwing  other ideas at you matey .

9 minutes ago, Waggy said:

There are T profile screwdrivers, which i am waiting on to try, but the feedback i have seen is positive, see the difference below:

IMG_20230804_140444.thumb.jpg.5104517f59f1387cf53a38e0d8953b84.jpg

They are made with a very fancy and crazy expensive sharpener:

IMG_20230804_140708.thumb.jpg.1bef0fe6fafb6883149c9ef87387b8b2.jpg

The potential good news is that I am designing a 3D printed version of the sharpener, so if you have access to a printer and can wait a week or two (need a new cooling fan for my printer) I can share the files needed to print one.

We had a good discussion about these 18 months back. The general consensus was # a bit gimmicky and not really practical # 

13 minutes ago, Waggy said:

There are T profile screwdrivers, which i am waiting on to try, but the feedback i have seen is positive, see the difference below:

IMG_20230804_140444.thumb.jpg.5104517f59f1387cf53a38e0d8953b84.jpg

They are made with a very fancy and crazy expensive sharpener:

IMG_20230804_140708.thumb.jpg.1bef0fe6fafb6883149c9ef87387b8b2.jpg

The potential good news is that I am designing a 3D printed version of the sharpener, so if you have access to a printer and can wait a week or two (need a new cooling fan for my printer) I can share the files needed to print one.

I was taken in by the idea but various opinions quickly had me rethink. First thought once shaped to what is known as hollow ground, the blade will only fit accurately one size slot of screw offering lower stability to a wider slotted screw ( slips easily ) The wedge shape blade can grip the slot of more than one size, with much better side friction the main advantage of a wedge shape. Hollow ground blades mean more drivers to accommodate varying screw sizes and slot widths. Coupled with extra maintenance time puts them more into a specialised bracket. The wedge profile is quick and easy to maintain. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

i use pegwood to do this............

That sounds safer than my brute force tool and I'm pretty sure the peg wood would be easier to shape. This is the reason for coming to the forum, field tested solutions which just make sense.

6 hours ago, Waggy said:

There are T profile screwdrivers.........

Now I think about it, I could have made life a bit easier by using my diamond file to flatten and then undercut one of the screwdriver bevels (across the width of the blade ) as opposed to cutting a notch in the end of the blade, so thats half a "T"

All Photos - 1 of 1 (2).jpeg

6 hours ago, Waggy said:

I am designing a 3D printed version of the sharpener

True to form, my 2D handwriting is illegible so goodness knows what my 3D printing would look like! My hollow grind woodworking chisels allow me to get a scarily sharp edge quickly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, DrHWO said:

That sounds safer than my brute force tool and I'm pretty sure the peg wood would be easier to shape. This is the reason for coming to the forum, field tested solutions which just make sense.

Now I think about it, I could have made life a bit easier by using my diamond file to flatten and then undercut one of the screwdriver bevels (across the width of the blade ) as opposed to cutting a notch in the end of the blade, so thats half a "T"

All Photos - 1 of 1 (2).jpeg

True to form, my 2D handwriting is illegible so goodness knows what my 3D printing would look like! My hollow grind woodworking chisels allow me to get a scarily sharp edge quickly.

👍Hollow grinding works very well with chisels and is the natural shape achieved from using a grinding wheel in a vertical position. With a chisel this makes sharpening  the edge and subsequent sharpening fast & easy and as Doc says gives the tool an insane edge. Something you obviously don't need to have with a driver's blade. I curiously wouldn't mind having my memory refreshed on the positive aspects of the T profile blade though.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Part of the fun in having a lathe is being able to make tools for your work

I may have mispurchased ........ my lathe weighs 800Kg is 1.8m between centres, 0.5m over the bed, runs off 400V 3 phase, so I'm guessing a tad too big! However it does give major bragging rights and more than makes up for my diminutive genitalia.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DrHWO said:

I may have mispurchased ........ my lathe weighs 800Kg is 1.8m between centres, 0.5m over the bed, runs off 400V 3 phase, so I'm guessing a tad too big! However it does give major bragging rights and more than makes up for my diminutive genitalia.

Yes but think about the newels you could turn out for that amazing four poster bed you've been promising the missus, that will take her mind off the other 😄

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

think about the newels you could turn out for that amazing four poster bed

Funny you should say that. One of my post retirement goals was to replace all the crap furniture in our house with stuff I'd designed and made myself. Mostly from air dried English oak (before I went to med school, I worked in a timber mill where I caught the wood bug). Although its not a four poster, the bed's already done!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, DrHWO said:

I used a triangular diamond file to cut a V shaped notch in the end of a 2.5mm screwdriver

I just use a spring bar tool as it already has a V shaped notch on one end. Every time I order a watch strap, bracelet or spring bars from AliExpress, the seller would include a free spring bar tool. I have a box of them already.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I only buy mechanical personally, as it's all that interests me. There are a few electronic movements I find interesting, but they're not the sort I tend to see very often at all, and wouldn't come up in any of my searches. I have been given a few quartz watches over the years, but they all just sit in a bag in a drawer. Once I hit some critical mass, I'll hopefully get enough motivation to either sell or donate them.
    • Welcome to the forum. I was just in London this past weekend... great weather. I hope you also enjoyed it.
    • I'm surprised you say that.  I'd say that IF (!!) barrel diameter, beat rate and all other things are equal, the length is directly correlated with the power reserve.  A random/quick google search found me this quote from Longines "The length of the mainspring directly correlates with the amount of power reserve a watch has. The longer the spring, the longer the power reserve or also the reduction of the vibration, i.e. from 28’800 A/h to 25’200 A/h. (less vibration, less energy needed)." (https://www.longines.com/en-za/universe/blog/what-is-power-reserve-on-a-watch) A few anecdotal experience on my side would also lead to that conclusion. Then, of course, it depends what you mean by "verry small". In the particular case with an original MS of 300mm, going to 280mm, I'd expect losing maybe 2h of power reserve. Just a "guesstimate". 
    • Actually one would not claim such thing  about the power reserve without check to confirm this, but if any difference, it will be verry small.
    • Another question if I may. When you guys buy watch lots are you buying a mix of mechanical and quartz as well? Most of the job lots I am finding (all overseas) are a mix. If they are all mechanical, it is generally just movements with no cases. I am not at the point where I can identify movements by just viewing them so I'm not inclined to buy a bunch of stuff which will just end up lying around. Is anyone able to successfully move any of the watches they save on to someone else? I can't see a viable market in Australia for refurbished watches. Most people I have seen at work only have a watch if it counts their steps, answers their phone and makes the coffee. I'll admit it, I have a super cheap smartwatch on my wrist. Will I buy another one when it quits? Doubt it. I don't know if I would even bother with a pedometer. Heart rate? And do what with all the data? Blood pressure? Never been right since I got the watch. Sleep? If I can't work out that I'm not getting enough, I need to have a serious talk with myself. I think I'll go back to my Seiko and just make myself stay active.
×
×
  • Create New...