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Posted

I started out years ago by repairing antique pocket watches to resell. I forgot how frustrating it is to reassemble these full plate movements, trying to line up 4 wheels and a pallet fork all at the same time!

 

I have learned a couple of tricks to made the assembly process go a bit smoother.

 

First, when first reinstalling all the components (wheels and pallet), install them on the full plate, or back plate first. This is because if they are installed on the main plate first, it is impossible to lower the main plate directly onto the pinions of all the components. This is because the pallet fork has to be maneuvered into the balance chamber and can only be done by shifting the main plate sideways then together. Not an easy task!

 

I install them on the full/back plate so that the pallet fork is already in it's proper position. Therefore, the main plated can just be lowered down directly onto all the pivots. This is still no easy task, but it is easier than the other way!

 

Second piece of advice is when seating the pinions into the main plate...

Start with the center wheel, then the Forth wheel (because of the second hand pinion), then the third wheel, the escape wheel and finally the pallet fork. Also, I find it easier to set the back plate with all the components installed onto a movement cushion, then lower the main plate onto the assembly. Then you can hold the whole works like a cookie, or biscuit for you UK Folks ;), and give a (slight) squeezing pressure as you seat the pinions all the way around. It takes practice and still it will take forever!

 

I'm sure this is not the only way, but it's what works for me!

 

 

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Posted

Excellent post Don.

 

I have to admit that it can be a pain seating the pallets correctly in these movements and I have never tried it upside down - I think I will give it a go next time.

 

And any self respecting Brit will call them dunkies, not biscuits lol  :thumbsu:

 

 

...just kidding

Posted (edited)

Biscuits.........Cookies! What about Bannocks??

Great article, this is what I like about this forum.

Edited by Geo
Posted

Thats a very nice pocket watch,  your article is especially interesting as I am just starting to build up a small collection of pocket watches and advice is always welcome, especially from someone who has been there and done that.  I have just bought my 1st. one, a Waltham Giant off the Bay, probably paid a bit too much for a non runner, but I will learn or run out of money and it does have a good case.  It needs a new Roller jewel fitting which I could probably manage if I had one, I really need about a dozen to allow for the fliers.  :-)

Posted

And any self respecting Brit will call them dunkies, not biscuits lol  :thumbsu:

 

 

...just kidding

 

 

Biscuits.........Cookies! What about Bannocks??

 

 

In times like these, I'm reminded what General George S. Patton said,

"Americans and Brits are 2 peoples separated by a common language!"

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    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
    • Once you are aware of the problem, you can adjust as necessary. I have a couple of the Omega 10xx, and they are not my favourites. They seem a bit flimsy and not as solid as previous generation Omega. But I think that's true of a lot of movements from the 70-80s. For me, the 50-60s is the peak in watch movements, where the design criteria was quality, not saving the last penny.
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