Jump to content

Another Newbie onboard


w30bob

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

  Got into watch collecting a few months ago and now have too many watches to count.  I did what I guess is normal for newbies......watched the YouTube videos, bought a bunch of newer watches to find out what kind I really wanted to collect......and then realized they're all pretty much the same Chinese parts with older Seiko or Miyota movements arranged in all possible combinations with Craft watchmakers names attached.  How boring.  Then I bought an old vintage watch and the light went off in my head.  I like vintage!  So many choices and they don't break the bank............what's not to like!  

   I joined a bunch of watch collector forums only to find out most of those guys don't even know how to remove the case back, never mind service or restore their watches.  Again, how boring.  So I kept looking and finally found this forum.  This looks like a bunch of guys who aren't afraid to get dirty and bring old soldiers back to life and keep them running!  Looking forward to learning a lot from you guys.  Here goes nothing..............................

;O)

bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob and welcome to the forum. You will find it’s a rabbit hole more watches more tools ,no more money. It’s too easy dragged in just keep your head buy what you can afford and build up slowly,  buy the best tools you can afford but don’t skimp on tweezers and screwdrivers these are the main ones. There are tweezers by Dumont good but expensive. Midrange A*F, Venus, and French screwdrivers will suffice to start. Then as skills develop so do the tools.   All the best

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...