Jump to content

Reducing centre wheel endshake on Seiko - what do these instructions mean ?

mikepilk
 Share

Recommended Posts

mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
Posted

I have a Seiko 2206 with too much endshake on the centre wheel, allowing it to touch the barrel (which itself has too much endshake, but I can't see how I can fix that).

I was going to push the top jewel down a tad, but a Seiko service sheet gives the following advice.

I don't understand what operation 2 is trying to achieve - 'Narrow the hole diameter'.
But then it tells you to push the jewel back to the same level as before !

Any ideas ?

image.png.3894566f6dd040a156ec3bb7760e9e1b.png

WIN_20230304_15_25_34_Pro.thumb.jpg.2f40ccb0322cc817ad36acd3ea416169.jpg

 

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi Mikepilk   Have you got a full copy of the sheet the extract is from you could post as I would like to read it. Removing the jewel with a chisel (sounds harsh) closing the hole I understand but then inserting the jewel to the same height as it was seems counter productive.  To my simple mind altering the jewel position up/down alters the end shake closing the hole tightens a loose jewel.    cheers

mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Mikepilk   Have you got a full copy of the sheet the extract is from you could post as I would like to read it. Removing the jewel with a chisel (sounds harsh) closing the hole I understand but then inserting the jewel to the same height as it was seems counter productive.  To my simple mind altering the jewel position up/down alters the end shake closing the hole tightens a loose jewel.    cheers

It's on page 6 of this Seiko 2205A.pdf

Why close the hole? It would mean you would probably break the jewel pushing it back in.

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Removing the jewel with a chisel (sounds harsh)

maybe something got lost in the translation.

 

12 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Have you got a full copy of the sheet the extract is from you could post as I would like to read it.

I'm attaching the 2206 which did not get attached above. You'll see it references the 2205. Then I'm attaching different versions the 2206 and 2205 as they have color ink here and there was the much larger file size maybe they'll be something somehow different.

Seiko 2206A.pdf 09. 2205A.pdf 10. 2206A.pdf

  • Thanks 1
mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

maybe something got lost in the translation.

I'm attaching the 2206 which did not get attached above. You'll see it references the 2205. Then I'm attaching different versions the 2206 and 2205 as they have color ink here and there was the much larger file size maybe they'll be something somehow different.

The 2206 refers to 2202 also, but it's only the 2205 which shows this technique

Thanks for the colour versions. 

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi Mikepilk  from reading the text it seems that in such a case there is a need to pay attention to both the centre wheel and the barrel arbour as separate entities in order to correct the problem. Fitting the jewel at the same height is a bit odd, I think its a case doing each in turn to achieve the desired result

mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The diagram above is only showing how to reduce the center wheel shake by adjusting the center wheel bridge, not the barrel bridge. So 'narrowing the hole diameter and putting the jewel achieves nothing! 

The bottom pic shows you how to increase barrel arbor shake (how often is that needed?) by tapping with a hammer, but not how to reduce it.

As JohynR725 suggests, I think something was lost in translation. My partner is Japanese, so If I could find the original documents !

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Is it possible to straighten this pivot?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I've noticed that some things are shipped from my country as well. Unlikely you will use any of the drills under 0.4mm, 0.4 seems about right for most re-pivot work for average watch sizes. Besides 0.3mm and under are extremely fragile and I found near impossible to sharpen, the flutes are so shallow and it's difficult to determine where to start grinding in the cutting and clearance angles once you've broken them.  The cheap ones with the coloured size indicator collars have worked for me, though these ones might be  better quality, they are 3x the price of the others.  You guys really have to pay through the nose for this stuff. It would be interesting to find out how much cheaper it would be for you, if we acted as a go between .
    • AndyGSi
      Bulova Rubaiyat 1920/21

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      Sorry for the confusion but I was referring to the stud staying in the hole in the barrel.
    • bosstaki
      Watch keeps stopping after battery change

      By bosstaki · Posted

      Hi guys! I’ve just changed a watch battery for a friend of mine & he says it keeps stopping on him when he puts it on to go out, he says if he takes it off a pulls the crown & puts the crown back in the starts working again! Any ideas please! 👍
    • JohnL
      Worn mainplate under crown wheel

      By JohnL · Posted

      Sorry, when I said lift up: it tilts, lifts up on the side where the winding pinion is so the teeth no longer engage, down on the side where the mainplate is worn. I think it's worn there more than is immediately apparent in the photo; it's a bit dark.   I shall get some photos of the crown wheel 😉 It's a Poljot 2614.2H. There is perhaps a bit of slop around the bushing, and some of the teeth may be slightly worn on the underside of the crown wheel. I'm not sure that if those issues are addressed it will fix the problem. I get the impression that having no support under one side is a bit of a design flaw that's asking for trouble. 
    • GPrideaux
      Bulova Rubaiyat 1920/21

      By GPrideaux · Posted

      The stud has a neck that is a little smaller in diameter than the end and the hole is keyhole shaped so the stud locks in and I wouldn't need to worry about the thickness of the tail pulling it out of the hole. It might be possible to remove the stud from the existing spring, but I don't know how I'd go about doing that in such a way that it would be reusable. Maybe work around it squeezing with pliers until the riveted end became small enough to pass through the spring? A few more higher magnification pics of the pin/stud:
×
×
  • Create New...