Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just had a ping of a spring on a Ladies Seikosha Solar. The 'click' spring went into orbit with the Seiko space programme. I have found a possible replacement in my spares. However it is too long, see the photograph. I can get it to fit into the allocated spot. But it needs only to be mid length into the gap before the click screw. Can anyone give me advice on how to safely shorten it.

Thank you Ross

CM230215-172314002.thumb.jpg.1770fca740b27ab8c6ecda45363c9253.jpg

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, tomh207 said:

I’m sure someone will correct me if needed, I would use snips same as when shortening stems when new.

 

Tom

Snips? Just done a search. Yup. Another item needed

Edited by rossjackson01
Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, tomh207 said:

Sorry, electronics slang, side or end cutters. Used for shortening stems, cutting wires etc.

 

Tom

Any recommendations from ebay for me

Found some 

Mini end cutters. Same as Kalle uses.

Edited by rossjackson01
Posted

If you don't want to wait, use the cutter part of some pliers. I suggest holding the spring in Rodico so that it too doesn't join the Swiss Space Program. 

  • Like 2
Posted
32 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

If you don't want to wait, use the cutter part of some pliers. I suggest holding the spring in Rodico so that it too doesn't join the Swiss Space Program. 

Thanks for the information Mike. Hadn't thought of the pliers or the Rodico. Should have used it at the outset.  I normally get so excited I just sail in. Did that today, hence the spring 'ping'. However, for once I'm going to do what I should do. Wait and make sure I'm right.

Ross

Posted
7 minutes ago, rossjackson01 said:

Thanks for the information Mike. Hadn't thought of the pliers or the Rodico. Should have used it at the outset.  I normally get so excited I just sail in. Did that today, hence the spring 'ping'. However, for once I'm going to do what I should do. Wait and make sure I'm right.

Ross

As they're so fine, you can cut them many ways, I have - pliers, scored with a knife ,or fine file, and snapped. The main thing is secure it so it doesn't ping off. Something soft like Rodico stops it pinging off.

I also recommend using Rodico when removing springs - stick a lump of Rodico on one end and lift with tweezers. The Rodico damps the "ping" and stops it flying.

  • Like 3
Posted
3 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I hold springs down with a piece of sharpened peg wood. 

My normal method. I removed the ratchet wheel. Saw the spring. Oh good! Ill pick up the peg wood. Spring. What spring!! Oh heck. 

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I hold springs down with a piece of sharpened peg wood. 

That's what I do, but until you get proficient, it's safer with Rodico

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

My normal method. I removed the ratchet wheel. Saw the spring. Oh good! Ill pick up the peg wood. Spring. What spring!! Oh heck. 

Haha yes it happens the moment you take your eyes off,  the little buggers make a dash for it. I had two children like this so i grew a third eye in the back of my head. When i remember i place something over the springs location if i have to look away.  How about creating a perimeter magnet field net with a series of magnets surrounding the bench's edge ?  😅

  • Haha 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Waggy said:

I use normal nail clippers to trim springs - works well for me 🙂

I'll try that. I have a spare spring.

Just done the Lighter fuel clean, then the IPA clean. Allowing time for all to dry. Just the jewels to lubricate next. Then to commence the rebuild.

2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Haha yes it happens the moment you take your eyes off,  the little buggers make a dash for it. I had two children like this so i grew a third eye in the back of my head. When i remember i place something over the springs location if i have to look away.  How about creating a perimeter magnet field net with a series of magnets surrounding the bench's edge ?  😅

Believe it or not, I spent on hour with a large magnet covering the area locale. No luck. But did find screws. 

Posted
2 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

Just done the Lighter fuel clean, then the IPA clean. Allowing time for all to dry. Just the jewels to lubricate next. Then to commence the rebuild.

Time to dry? That's very soon after an IPA rinse. I quick blast from a hairdryer ensures all is dry

Posted
2 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:
6 hours ago, Waggy said:

use normal nail clippers to trim springs - works well for me 🙂

I'll try that. I have a spare spring.

These are a great idea, they come in 2 sizes, ok for tightening up a cannon pinion as well. They have curved shaped cutting ends that are easy to sharpen with a miniature drum sander in a dremel tool.

  • Like 2
Posted

If you have a tendency to lose springs, it will be a good idea to learn how to make your own springs.

My mentor taught me to use guitar strings to fabricate my own springs. It takes a bit of practice but it has saved me hours of floorwork.

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

If you have a tendency to lose springs, it will be a good idea to learn how to make your own springs.

My mentor taught me to use guitar strings to fabricate my own springs. It takes a bit of practice but it has saved me hours of floorwork.

Wow! Make a video for YouTube. I'll watch it

4 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Time to dry? That's very soon after an IPA rinse. I quick blast from a hairdryer ensures all is dry

I do the build at least a day after the IPA clean

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
    • A few things you should find out before you can mske a decision of what to do. As Richard said, what is the crown and all of the crown components made of . Then also the stem .  The crown looks to have a steel washer that retains a gasket. So be careful with what chemicals you use to dissolve any stem adhesives or the use of heat. You might swell or melt the gasket unless you are prepared to change that also . The steel washer maybe reactive to alum. Something I've just used to dissolve a broken screw from a plate. First drilled out the centre of the screw with a 0.5mm carbide . Dipped only the section that held the broken screw in Rustins rust remover. This is 40 % phosphoric acid. 3 days and the screw remains were completely dissolved, no trace of steel in the brass threads. A black puddle left in the solution.
    • I suppose this will add to the confusion I have a roller jewel assortment. It lists out American pocket watches for Elgin 18 size and even 16 size it's a 50. But not all the various companies used 50-50 does seem to be common one company had a 51 and the smallest is 43. American parts are always interesting? Francis Elgin for mainsprings will tell you the thickness of the spring other companies will not even though the spring for the same number could come in a variety of thicknesses. But if we actually had the model number of your watch we would find it probably makes a reference that the roller jewel came in different dimensions. So overlook the parts book we find that? So it appears to be 18 and 16 size would be the same sort of the arson different catalog numbers and as I said we don't have your Mongol know which Log number were supposed to be using. Variety of materials garnered her sapphire single or double but zero mention about diameters. Then in a section of rollers in this case rollers with jewels we do get this down in the notes section Roller specifications but of course zero reference to the jewel size. I was really hoping the roller jewel assortment would give us sizes it doesn't really. But it does show a picture of how one particular roller jewel gauge is used  
    • Seems to still do it through my mobile data, I use an android phone almost exclusively, but I'll double check it. Thanks mark Strange, I'll try my laptop that utilities edge. I've been on site half hour since I got home, it hasn't done it yet. Thanks John
    • At work, I'm on MS Edge, not through chose, on my phone, chrome, no issues with either. 
×
×
  • Create New...