Jump to content

Help with removing a spinning bracelet link screw


Recommended Posts

Hi all

I am wanting to remove a link from a Rolex 93160A bracelet. However, on the link to be removed, the screw is just spinning in its seat - I suspect a stripped thread on either the screw itself or the holding piece (or both). Any thoughts of how to remove it - I have even tried unscrewing it upside down in the hope it might fall out. I tried some Super glue on the screwdriver in an attempt to have it adhere so I could unscrew and pull it out, but no luck adhering with enough strength to the SS. Any ideas, thoughts, processes...please! 

oh, forgot to mention there is no opening on the other side of the link to push it through. 

20230117_092958.thumb.jpg.e744c0045f1807bb3879736da5931545.jpg

 

20230117_092948.jpg.b1f6a15bc19d47bf532514a2a4fa043e.jpg

cheers 

John 

Edited by Blubarb
add photos
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, clockboy said:

Not easy without causing further damage.. Looking at the pictures the screw next to the troublesome screw is also very badly bruised.  A screw extractor or equivalent is a safest bet for me.

 

921AE522-5E43-426D-BAB0-5F5753010C0B.jpeg.f369d2c02cb32ac87d62249b48b1f7dd.jpeg

Yep, this looks to be the solution. Btw, you are right about the screws being bruised - I have some more in my Felix bag of tricks somewhere. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
×
×
  • Create New...