Jump to content

Introducing FireEng


FireEng

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am an engineer and I like all type of mechanism. I always liked watches.

I loved the history of the raketa watches, so I bought a cheap one on ebay. I would like to restore it, just for the experience.

I want to start with some aesthetic repairments. The case is scratched, and the dial seems to be dirty. Unfortunately I didn't find book in italian (which is my language) that can help in these repairments. I hope that I can find some help here in this forum.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like you, I have found Raketa watches to be well made and enjoyable to service.

The trouble is that during the Soviet era, most of the cases and dials were made from very cheap materials, espcially for the watches meant for the domestic market. There are exceptions, but this is mostly true. So, they don't age well. 

This may not help you, but I would advise you to concentrate on servicing the movements and helping them operate correctly, and not worry much about the dials and cases. You might get lucky and find new and good cases that will fit your movements, but I wouldn't count on this. I enjoy wearing some battered looking watches, they all keep reasonably accurate time, and they were not very expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the watch. As you can see the back of the case is really scratched. I cannot understand if it is brass or steel.

I would like to polish the case and to clean the dial, just to start. Are there any references about these procedures in the group or in some book?

I also don't know if this model has a name. 

 

1673453364.jpg

Screenshot_20230116_091900_com.ebay.mobile.jpg

Edited by FireEng
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi have a look under the balance wheel, Ican see a logo (makers mark) and there should be a number in your case 2609Ha which is the calibre. There are parts sheets for these watches.  It looks in fair condition and would respond to a good service and clean up. The case looks pitted due to the acidic sweat reacting withe the metal. There are a few vids on U Tube if you search for them. All in all a nice piece of Russian tech.    Cheers

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there are quite a lot in the vids it’s just a case of searching, try watch case restoration as a search string.  The case it’s self is a bit tatty but to be expected if it’s been worn for a long time but could be improved some what by just brushing with a brass brush. Nothing too vigorous just to improve the look. If you search Cousins uk document downloads you will be able to find a sheet for the 2609.  Cheers

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...