Jump to content

Bulova 11AFK Sweep Second Hand not staying on

Levine98
 Share

Recommended Posts

Levine98 WRT Addict

Levine98

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Finishing up a nice 1959 Bulova 11AFK and am having trouble keeping the sweep second hand attached. I'm assuming the problem is with the hole having worn on the sweep second hand (vs the sweep pinion). 

Besides purchasing a NOS from eBay or a generic replacement, are there any techniques that someone can share on how to tighten the hole (I dont have a closing punch small enough in my staking set). 

I did think about super glue, but only for a second.....

I've included a photo--thanks in advance for any help. Levine98

 

 

IMG_0588.jpg

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Leave the end of the sweep second hand as is ( with worn or larger diameter) as this ensures easy fitting of the sweep hand on its arbour, tighten the tube at its mid- length  with a nail clipper.

Good luck

 

Correction , 

the end of the tube  of the sweep second hand.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, RedVitus said:

One method is tightening in a lathe collet. I've had success using it for a wristwatch seconds hand.  

VideoCapture_20221024-173406.thumb.jpg.a1eeb8ee70a54456b882f99beb496e6d.jpg

 

I've had similar results with a good quality pin vice but very steady as she goes as you are tightening the full length of  the tube. Joe's idea of the nail clippers makes broaching easier if over enthusiastic with the tightening and also aids the fitting by not reducing the start of the opening. 

mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Levine98 said:

Thanks, I’ll give it a try with the nail clippers. 

Put a rod in the tube (a needle might do it) to prevent it collapsing completely when you use the nail clippers

  • Like 1
RedVitus Member

RedVitus

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I've had similar results with a good quality pin vice but very steady as she goes as you are tightening the full length of  the tube. Joe's idea of the nail clippers makes broaching easier if over enthusiastic with the tightening and also aids the fitting by not reducing the start of the opening. 

Good point. Maybe I was lucky 😉 There is risk any way you do it though. If one uses a numbered collet same diameter as the tube then it mitigates some of the risk I would think. Further, If tightened just to the point where the tube no longer can move, not further, then that should be enough for a first pass try.

Edited by RedVitus
  • Like 1
Levine98 WRT Addict

Levine98

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I don't think I have a needle that small—what about using the sweep second hand pinion to ensure I don’t press in the tube too far? I assume it’s hardened steel and not easily damaged if handled with care? Reason I’m asking is I don’t have a collet (or a lathe) so will be attempting the nail clipper fix.

Edited by Levine98
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, RedVitus said:

Good point. Maybe I was lucky 😉 There is risk any way you do it though. If one uses a numbered collet same diameter as the tube then it mitigates some of the risk I would think. Further, If tightened just to the point where the tube no longer can move, not further, then that should be enough for a first pass try.

Eyup matey. I was meaning more for the pin vice that has less control than a collet, a lot of beginners wont have a lathe and collets.

9 minutes ago, Levine98 said:

I don't think I have a needle that small—what about using the sweep second hand pinion to ensure I don’t press in the tube too far? I assume it’s hardened steel and not easily damaged if handled with care? Reason I’m asking is I don’t have a collet (or a lathe) so will be attempting the nail clipper fix.

🤔 maybe with good control. Personally myself i would probably risk it. A broach ? I use acupuncture needles for lots of things, homemade oilers, hooks, tweekers, pushers, pullers etc.  These start at aound 0.18mm and go up to 0.3mm, around 5-8 quid for a box of one hundred. Stainless steel , very bendy and worth having in your tool kit. 

  • Like 1
mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, Levine98 said:

I don't think I have a needle that small—what about using the sweep second hand pinion to ensure I don’t press in the tube too far? I assume it’s hardened steel and not easily damaged if handled with care? Reason I’m asking is I don’t have a collet (or a lathe) so will be attempting the nail clipper fix.

Steel guitar strings go from about 0.10 to 0.5 mm. A 'G' string should do nicely at about 0.17mm.

Or sharpen an old oiler to a fine point. 

  • Like 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Steel guitar strings go from about 0.10 to 0.5 mm. A 'G' string should do nicely at about 0.17mm.

Or sharpen an old oiler to a fine point. 

This is a great addition to the acupuncture needles Mike. Increases the size range. 👍. Good for making clic and return springs as well.

Levine98 WRT Addict

Levine98

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So a couple of things.

First, thak you to all who offered suggestions. In the end, I was able to sort out the loose sweep second hand issue, but not as I had orignally thought.

After checking the sweep second hand pinion by measuring it and comparing it to a like movement and then fitting the sweep second hand on to it outside of the movement, I realized the issue was my mis-diagnosing the problem.

In point of fact what I was doing wrong was applying the sweep second hand onto the pinion while the movement was mounted in a movement holder, so the sweep second hand was never getting pushed down firmly enough on to the pinion (which is spring loaded). Having realized this, I simply held down that pinon on the bottom of the movement while pressing the sweep second hand on, problem solved.... Attached is a picture of the watch cased and ready to go (kind of, now my next question.

One of the things I was not able to accomplish is fitting a fresh gasket to case. This is supposed to be a waterproof watch, but when I first cracked open the case I had to remove the old gaskets because they were deteriorated beyond use. Unfortunately I have not been able to find any NOS gaskets for this watch, and none of the flat gaskets I have in my assortment package from Otto Frei come close to fitting (all too wide plus too small or too large diameter).

I tried carving up one from my assortment pile to make it fit, but it is very sloppy and I know it is not right.

Any suggestions?  

 

IMG_0594.jpg

Ring.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • donutdan
      Parts sourcing for FHF 180 movement

      By donutdan · Posted

      Hi Watchrepairtalk, I have some questions about part sourcing I was hoping someone here might be able to help with. I'm working on an FHF 180 movement with a broken balance staff, broken regulator pins, and damaged cap jewels (both top and bottom). Some Googling says that this is similar to other FHF calibers like 150s, 160s, 180s and so on but I can't figure out what the functional difference is between these movements.  Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to acquire a donor FHF 150 or similar (with no shock protection) and use parts from that or would it be smarter to source replacements individually? Also are there any sources someone could recommend to get bulk cap jewels like this? Thank you for the help!
    • Nucejoe
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By Nucejoe · Posted

      Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Titanium
      Lab Coats

      By Titanium · Posted

      Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Titanium
      Chinese tools debate

      By Titanium · Posted

      Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
×
×
  • Create New...