Jump to content

Tips for oiling capped jewels


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm well on my way to turning my Elgin 539 into a scrap movement 😄 I'm reaching out to ask for tips on oiling the balance end stones. I watched Marshall do it in this video but when trying this method out for myself, I can't fathom how this is possible without displacing the drop of oil.

I found the TM 9-1575 war department technical manual (what an awesome manual) which suggests the following:

Quote

To place oil in a capped jewel, a small drop should be placed on the oiler and fed into the space between the jewel and the end stone with a fine pointed wire or broach smaller than the jewel hole.

image.png.bfa3a33d7d72a17ec2bf68e8674a7302.png

Are they suggesting to guide an oiler through the upper jewel hole onto the end stone? For reference, here's the jewel with my smallest oiler - the spade tip thing is almost twice the diameter of the jewel hole. Has anyone tried this method with success?

image.thumb.png.88b66dce281b01567c95b189c7f4c072.png

cheers,

Fredrik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, a standard oiler won't generally fit, but it brings the oil drop to the hole. What actually goes through is the fine wire or broach, which does need to fit. I have a very fine strand taken from a wire brush that I keep in a cheap pin vise to use when oil needs to be fed/wicked/teased into the cap cavity. Some people use a very fine needle in the same way.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark has a good video showing his process (similar to the video linked in the original post but with clearer visuals) as well as the automatic oiler option:
 

 

Esslinger sells a tool ($9) for feeding the oil through to the cap jewel if you want to go that route:
 

https://www.esslinger.com/watch-oil-inserters-tool-balance-jewel-oiler/

Edited by GuyMontag
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

Mark has a good video showing his process (similar to the video linked in the original post but with clearer visuals) as well as the automatic oiler option

I attempted his method of oiling the lower end stone and it worked like a charm, thanks for the link!

2 hours ago, canthus said:

This available from Cousins UK.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/oilers-3-in-1-incabloc-specialist?code=O49487

Wire is very thin so needs care when using.

For the top jewels, I attempted the method suggested in the technical manual. I stripped a broken USB cable and snipped off one of the copper strands (technicall not MILSPEC I guess). Then, with a drop of oil placed over the jewel hole, I inserted the copper wire into the hole and lo, the oil wicked through onto the end stone like magic. I'm sure this is easier with proper tools, but it was fun to see how well it worked.

I'll give Mark's method for the top jewel a shot as well.

Thanks for the help guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...