Jump to content

Hello, not even a beginner yet.


EHam

Recommended Posts

But I've very much been interested in watchmaking for a very long time.   So, I'm thinking about taking the course, and giving it a go.  (I wonder if this old dog can learn some new tricks?)

In any case, I'm likely to ask some dumb questions along the way that may cause others vicarious embarrassment.  So, I offer my apologies in advance. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to WRT! I've taken Mark's online courses (1 - 3) and they're going to teach you a lot (especially as a "not-even-a-beginner").

There are some really helpful folks here. When you ask your questions, be sure to attach a photo of what you're working on. You might also edit your profile to let us know where you are in the world (there are folks here from all over the place).

I started with this whole thing about 7 months ago and I have learned a lot here (and from watching YT videos). I'm still not very adept at doing the actual work (but I have a lot of fun photographing what I'm doing).

- Gary

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome! I've also taken the first three levels of Mark's courses and found them worth the money.

There is, however, no substitute for experience, and don't be discouraged when your first few eBay finds don't work out well.

The ST36/6497 clone movement from eBay is a good place to start. You can pick one up brand new for less than $40 and not have to deal with busted-up watches and broken parts while learning how to disassemble and assemble a watch.

I'm pretty sure that's the movement Mark recommends in his course, as well.

And finally, ask the dumb questions. We've all been there (many of us still are, speaking for myself).

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, EHam said:

But I've very much been interested in watchmaking for a very long time.   So, I'm thinking about taking the course, and giving it a go.  (I wonder if this old dog can learn some new tricks?)

In any case, I'm likely to ask some dumb questions along the way that may cause others vicarious embarrassment.  So, I offer my apologies in advance. 

 

 

 

Welcome to WRT.  Your username is oddly similar to someone I know.  You by chance aren't in central Oklahoma are you?  Slim chance but I figured I'd ask.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've also heard it called the "top side" and the dial side the "bottom side", which should make any non-repairer very confused. There are many examples and sometimes it comes down to personal preference. Personally, I like to say "dial train" whereas most other people would use the term "motion works".
    • Is magnetism such a major problem that we (as home hobbyists) need to spend $$$ on a fancy demagnetiser? I use one of the cheap blue Chinese demagnetisers (£10 from ebay). It works, and has never failed to demagnetise a movement, or my screwdrivers. Magnetometer - who needs one?  Take a very small screw. If it sticks to the clean part, it is magnetised 🤣
    • My overall preference is to use traditional names and terms, that became my habit when i was taught joinery by old boy chippies 2 generations older than me , that had their time in the 40's. But what i often do is adjust the names and terms i use according to who I'm talking with. Sometimes i will say trainside and occasionally watchmaker's side. I try to find a balance between accommodating other folk ( there's no point speaking a foreign language to someone who doesn't understand it ) and using a name that appears to me to be more relevant as to its use or description. But using the name lever can be quite confusing,  some watches might have parts that are also levers, release levers, which in effect is what the pallet fork is, an escapement release lever. 
    • Then put the case number in here https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/search-seiko-case-parts and it should give you the crown 
    • I come across to replace the crystal of a 7734 chronograph.  What make it special there a printed chapter ring  which fits inside the recess of crystal before inserting into the case. I am thinking of a high dome crystal such as Sternkreuz ATCH, fitting diameter OD332/ID320.  For this purpose, tension ring will be removed and fit in the chapter ring.  I understand the crystal size may not perfectly fit these two dimension.  Should aim to find the right ID, then OD can be grinded to reduce without much difficulty.  To find the right crystal, the easiest way is to get know of the OD/ID relationship of Sternkreuz ATCH/ATCG (otherwise the OD of the crystal and tension ring).  I hope you are able to help to minimize the trial and errors.
×
×
  • Create New...