69’ Wyler Electronic Case back
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Your general point is well made, but in my case I was talking about the teeny 0.2ml vials, e.g. 9010 for £6.87. This is considerably worse value for money unless this is all you need, in which case it's great! When you multiply by the ~5 different kinds of lubricant you need, it makes a big difference for a beginner. 0.2ml is plenty for a leisurely tinkerer as long as you're careful not to spill it! I made a little stand for the vials by drilling holes in a plastic bottle top. Then I carefully transfer a drop or two from an upright vial to a covered oiling cup using a large oiler as debated in another thread here. -
neverenough, Upon further inspection (10 power loup) I found that there was a slight bend in the frame there the lower jewel was fitted. Very thin brass do to all the metal removal to make room for the parts. I must have done that then I pressed in the new banking pins. In the process in flatting out the area. Reinstall the jewel and see where I stand. Dave -
A few years ago, I started out my workbench with a $50 oil kit from ebay with tiny quantities of 9010, HP1300, 8200, 9501, 9415. But the seller was from my own state and known personally by a professional watchmaker I'd taken a starter class with. She doesn't seem to still be selling kits though. This was for me, part of the initial investment and a development phase of "can I do this work, do I have the patience and dexterity." The economics of my quantities received vs the price originally packaged volumes were not really a consideration because I wasn't buying for long term or high throughput (as a pro would need). It was simply a matter of spending $50 on something I was uncertain to succeed at vs spending $150 with no greater guarantee of success. Just adding hobbyist perspective here. And I was fortunate that a professional watchmaker could vouch for my oil repackager. -
By Terrinecold · Posted
I hope I took enough pictures. I am now going to clean everything and I am pretty uncertain about my ability to put it all back together. The basic movement should be ok with likely some frustration when putting the big bridge on. But both the calendar side and the automatic parts will be stressful. Specially since everything is so tiny compared to the ST36 so many more parts This 2 will be of great help. The Miyota site actually provides them This part is called “date dial guard” in the Miyota chart. As you can see there is a wheel and some kind of spring/jumper on it which I don’t think I can remove. I also don’t see them in the assembly - disassembly chart. Do you think I am correct it is supposed to stay together and I shouldn’t try to disassemble it further? -
By nevenbekriev · Posted
I have often to reshape stones, for example when I need to replace 'rolled over' or burnished type stone with a modern one. The other case is when a wider pallet stone has to be sized to tight fit the slot in the pallet fork. The tool that does this jobs is this kind of diamond disk. Grit 1000 or 800 is perfect for the honing. If the stone height is to be resized in the way Jon did, this will be enough to put the disk (the big one) on the table top diamond side up, put the stone on the disk, press it with finger and move it forward-reverse for a while on the disk surface, then try the height. If one is carefull and take measures not to grind the surface bent, this will take no more than minute to resize the jewel. The same way I use to resize the pallet stones. If a stone edge have to be rounded, then I turn on the top of a rod a 'nest' to receive the stone and glue there the stone with shellac, then while the whole thing is rotated, use the disk as a file to shape the stone.
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