Jump to content

Landeron 148 chrono stopping

watchfellow
 Share

Recommended Posts

watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I am currently frustrated with this Landeron 148. It works fine with the chronograph off, but once it is engaged it stops shortly. I have checked for damage on the wheels as well as adjusted the dephting, but I can't seem to get it to work. I was wondering if anyone had any tips or can spot something that looks like it needs attention (photo attached). 

 

IMG_3108.JPG

watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The mainspring is fine I believe.

The adjustment on the sliding gear seems to be the issue as it stops whenever the chronograph runner engages with it. I can see that the depth isn't correct. I can't seem to figure out where the adjustment screws for the sliding gear are however.

watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you, I believe that the adjustments on the driving, coupling and runner are fine now, but the watch stops immediately when the runner pin touches the sliding gear. It doesn't matter how I adjust it, the watch stops immediately as soon as the pin makes contact with the sliding gear. The sliding gear seems to work freely so I am really not sure why this is happening.

IMG_3113.jpg

praezis Distinguished Member

praezis

Posted
Posted

Sliding gear wheel and min.-recording wheel must spin absolutely free without the least resistance.

But your picture looks like pin and tooth are blocking each other. This happens if sliding gear and pin are not meshing deep enough. Adjust the sliding gear deeper with its eccentric (can't say which one, find which stops the movement of s. g.)

Frank

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the help Frank. You were right that there was something off about the minute wheel and sliding gear. I ordered a new minute wheel for a 148 and it was different from the existing one in the movement. It works fine now with the new wheel and I was able to adequately adjust the depthing. Perhaps someone had switched it out for a different Landeron caliber?

The issue I'm having now is with the start/stop/reset. I know that on these movements the 2 o'clock pusher starts the chrono while the 4 o'clock pusher stops/resets. However when I engage the start pusher it will only move the hammer to the "stop" position, not all the way out to engage the chrono. If I move the hammer manually and engage the chrono, then try to stop it with the 4 o'clock pusher, it will do nothing. If it is in the "stop" position it will return and zero it out however. I have attached a photo of me moving the fly-back lever and you can see it doesn't engage at all.

Not sure what the issue could be with and would appreciate any tips. The only thing I can think is that there might be a problem with the reverser spring and fly-back lever?

IMG_3211.JPG

IMG_3213.JPG

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • TimeWerks
      Omega sweep second pinion friction spring - correct tension IS important

      By TimeWerks · Posted

      Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • caseback
      Clock newbie

      By caseback · Posted

      After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • JohnR725
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • JohnR725
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...