Jump to content

Landeron 148 chrono stopping

watchfellow
 Share

Recommended Posts

watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I am currently frustrated with this Landeron 148. It works fine with the chronograph off, but once it is engaged it stops shortly. I have checked for damage on the wheels as well as adjusted the dephting, but I can't seem to get it to work. I was wondering if anyone had any tips or can spot something that looks like it needs attention (photo attached). 

 

IMG_3108.JPG

watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The mainspring is fine I believe.

The adjustment on the sliding gear seems to be the issue as it stops whenever the chronograph runner engages with it. I can see that the depth isn't correct. I can't seem to figure out where the adjustment screws for the sliding gear are however.

watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you, I believe that the adjustments on the driving, coupling and runner are fine now, but the watch stops immediately when the runner pin touches the sliding gear. It doesn't matter how I adjust it, the watch stops immediately as soon as the pin makes contact with the sliding gear. The sliding gear seems to work freely so I am really not sure why this is happening.

IMG_3113.jpg

praezis Distinguished Member

praezis

Posted
Posted

Sliding gear wheel and min.-recording wheel must spin absolutely free without the least resistance.

But your picture looks like pin and tooth are blocking each other. This happens if sliding gear and pin are not meshing deep enough. Adjust the sliding gear deeper with its eccentric (can't say which one, find which stops the movement of s. g.)

Frank

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
watchfellow Watch Enthusiast

watchfellow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the help Frank. You were right that there was something off about the minute wheel and sliding gear. I ordered a new minute wheel for a 148 and it was different from the existing one in the movement. It works fine now with the new wheel and I was able to adequately adjust the depthing. Perhaps someone had switched it out for a different Landeron caliber?

The issue I'm having now is with the start/stop/reset. I know that on these movements the 2 o'clock pusher starts the chrono while the 4 o'clock pusher stops/resets. However when I engage the start pusher it will only move the hammer to the "stop" position, not all the way out to engage the chrono. If I move the hammer manually and engage the chrono, then try to stop it with the 4 o'clock pusher, it will do nothing. If it is in the "stop" position it will return and zero it out however. I have attached a photo of me moving the fly-back lever and you can see it doesn't engage at all.

Not sure what the issue could be with and would appreciate any tips. The only thing I can think is that there might be a problem with the reverser spring and fly-back lever?

IMG_3211.JPG

IMG_3213.JPG

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • caseback
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By caseback · Posted

      I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • LittleWatchShop
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Rocco
      Watch of Today

      By Rocco · Posted

      Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • RichardHarris123
      Hello from the Philadelphia area

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...