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Posted

As mentioned I the title, I recently acquired my first project watch, a 1980s Timex Red Dot Skindiver (I think that's what it's called) with a Timex M25 manual movement. The only problem is that I cannot get it out of the case! The case seems to be blocking the movement from getting out in the back, so I believe the only way to get it out is to remove the crystal and coax it out through the front of the case. I don't care about preserving the crystal, as it is too far gone for me to repair, so I am wondering if I need to get a crystal remover or if I can remove the crystal with other tools without hurting the dial. Or perhaps I am being blind and there is merely a screw that needs to be loosened? 

Any help would be appreciated, thank you!

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Posted

Hello Lotus,  Welcome to the WRT forum.  I'm not very familiar with vintage Timex watches however I found this YT video that may help you with that model.  I'm sure there are many others who will chime in to help you if this video doesn't answer your questions.   Best of luck to you on your journey into this hobby.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Red Dot Diver is a nickname and this is actually a Marlin.  Based on the hands I'd say it was second generation and from 1984.  Yes, you will need to lift the bezel and the crystal to remove the movement.  I don't see anything wrong with the crystal that a good buff and polish won't fix.  What is wrong with the movement?   BTW - you know one diver leads to another...like this 🙂   The diver upper right was the latest addition.

IMG_6893 (1).jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, JerseyMo said:

What is wrong with the movement? 

I think something might be wrong with the keyless works or motion works, sometimes the hour hand will not turn with the minute hand when setting the time and I cannot change the date at all. Other than that, the train wheels and balance are all fine and working properly.

Also, thank you so much for the advice!

 

Edited by Lotus
Posted
5 hours ago, Lotus said:

I think something might be wrong with the keyless works or motion works, sometimes the hour hand will not turn with the minute hand when setting the time and I cannot change the date at all. Other than that, the train wheels and balance are all fine and working properly.

Also, thank you so much for the advice!

 

I'll take a guess and say that something broke off on the date frame.  This is causing the issue.

  • 8 months later...
Posted
On 3/10/2023 at 7:15 AM, kd8tzc said:

@Lotus, I know this is an older thread, but just curious if you got this watch working again and what you had to do to do so?

No, unfortunately not yet. I'm still slowly working my way to a timex movement.  I think I'll be able to work with it soon, though, because I just finished my first full service of a simple Raketa watch. I know the timex movement is much harder to work on, but I hope to see to it someday! 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 6/7/2022 at 03:51, Lotus said:

Come accennato nel titolo, ho recentemente acquistato il mio primo orologio da progetto, un Timex Red Dot Skindiver degli anni '80 (penso sia così che si chiami) con un movimento manuale Timex M25. L'unico problema è che non riesco a toglierlo dalla custodia! La cassa sembra impedire al movimento di uscire nella parte posteriore, quindi credo che l'unico modo per farlo uscire sia rimuovere il cristallo e convincerlo a uscire dalla parte anteriore della cassa. Non mi interessa preservare il cristallo, poiché è troppo lontano per essere riparato, quindi mi chiedo se devo procurarmi un dispositivo di rimozione del cristallo o se posso rimuovere il cristallo con altri strumenti senza danneggiare il quadrante. O forse sono cieco e c'è solo una vite che deve essere allentata? 

Qualsiasi aiuto sarebbe apprezzato, grazie!

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A mio modestissimo parere, devi prima estrarre la Tige, e poi si libera il movimento, dalle foto non capisco se ci sono delle viti che lo bloccano, ma sicuramente se prima non estrai la tige, non esce, fidati.

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Anubis61 said:

A mio modestissimo parere, devi prima estrarre la Tige, e poi si libera il movimento, dalle foto non capisco se ci sono delle viti che lo bloccano, ma sicuramente se prima non estrai la tige, non esce, fidati.

 

 

Il movimento esce dalla parte anteriore della cassa dell'orologio. Quindi il cristallo deve essere sollevato. Google Traduttore

Posted

@Lotus... I know what you mean about a harder movement to work on.  I had an older M25 just lying around that I just decided to take apart the other day.  It wasn't working to start with so I figured I had nothing to lose, and who knows, maybe it will work when I'm done with it (not!).

What I found was that getting all the gears lined up was a huge pain.  I started just adding them one at a time and then getting the two plates to go together with just that one gear.  Once I could do that, I added a second gear, and worked on that.  I found that I had to so some very gentle manipulation of the gears with their stems to get them lined up, but it was a great experience.  The only thing I have not been able to do yet is add the pallet fork.  If anyone has any tricks to get that to stay in place when you add the escape wheel I would appreciate it.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 24/3/2023 at 17:29, Anubis61 said:

A mio modestissimo parere, devi prima estrarre la Tige, e poi si libera il movimento, dalle foto non capisco se ci sono delle viti che lo bloccano, ma sicuramente se prima non estrai la tige, non esce, fidati.

 

 

On 24/3/2023 at 21:14, JerseyMo said:

 

Il movimento esce dalla parte anteriore della cassa dell'orologio. Quindi il cristallo deve essere sollevato. Google Traduttore

Per quel poco che ho potuto vedere nella foto postata con fondello aperto, secondo me la tige va estratta.....

Posted
On 3/26/2023 at 8:16 AM, Anubis61 said:

 

Per quel poco che ho potuto vedere nella foto postata con fondello aperto, secondo me la tige va estratta.....

si, togli lo stelo. Il prossimo è sollevare il cristallo.

Posted
On 7/6/2022 at 1:36 PM, JerseyMo said:

Red Dot Diver is a nickname and this is actually a Marlin.  Based on the hands I'd say it was second generation and from 1984.  Yes, you will need to lift the bezel and the crystal to remove the movement.  I don't see anything wrong with the crystal that a good buff and polish won't fix.  What is wrong with the movement?   BTW - you know one diver leads to another...like this 🙂   The diver upper right was the latest addition.

IMG_6893 (1).jpg

Oh my, those look really nice!! Do you wear them all at once?

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    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
    • Once you are aware of the problem, you can adjust as necessary. I have a couple of the Omega 10xx, and they are not my favourites. They seem a bit flimsy and not as solid as previous generation Omega. But I think that's true of a lot of movements from the 70-80s. For me, the 50-60s is the peak in watch movements, where the design criteria was quality, not saving the last penny.
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