Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi folks

I bought a non-working watch and found that it has a detent escapement.  My first.  Is there anything I should know before attempting to service the watch?

Thanks,

J

Posted
1 hour ago, Turtle said:

I bought a non-working watch and found that it has a detent escapement.  My first.  Is there anything I should know before attempting to service the watch?

Pictures would be nice  we love pictures on this group at least I love pictures I'd like to see Your detent  and the whole watch of course.. Then when you are purchasing the nonrunning watch  did you know it was a detent?

Is it a pivoted detent for spring detent?

Then what is the current condition of this watch?

Unfortunately there are cautions.  One of my friends used to work on chronometers and he would talk about the bad things. I also have a Hamilton chronometer that something bad happened before I got it..  The problem with the D10 escapement is  if the locking jewel  is no longer where it's supposed to be the escape wheel is free to spin.  It can spin really really fast and if anything gets in its way it breaks.  So in the case of my Hamilton the escape wheel teeth are all bent over  the pivots on the escape wheel and the balance are broken  and several jewels are broken..

I think it also want to be careful of setting the watch turning the hands back words. I'm not exactly an expert at this I'm just going by memory there is the possibility when the hands are set back words I think it actually says that on the chronometer  manual for the Hamilton there is a possibility of causing the escapement to unlock and bad things of course happen.

So basically he has had be really careful not to cause the escapement to unlock an inappropriate fashion and have the escape wheel spin and bad things.  Otherwise the really fascinating timepieces when the running

Posted
24 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Pictures would be nice  we love pictures on this group at least I love pictures I'd like to see Your detent  and the whole watch of course.. Then when you are purchasing the nonrunning watch  did you know it was a detent?

Is it a pivoted detent for spring detent?

Then what is the current condition of this watch?

Unfortunately there are cautions.  One of my friends used to work on chronometers and he would talk about the bad things. I also have a Hamilton chronometer that something bad happened before I got it..  The problem with the D10 escapement is  if the locking jewel  is no longer where it's supposed to be the escape wheel is free to spin.  It can spin really really fast and if anything gets in its way it breaks.  So in the case of my Hamilton the escape wheel teeth are all bent over  the pivots on the escape wheel and the balance are broken  and several jewels are broken..

I think it also want to be careful of setting the watch turning the hands back words. I'm not exactly an expert at this I'm just going by memory there is the possibility when the hands are set back words I think it actually says that on the chronometer  manual for the Hamilton there is a possibility of causing the escapement to unlock and bad things of course happen.

So basically he has had be really careful not to cause the escapement to unlock an inappropriate fashion and have the escape wheel spin and bad things.  Otherwise the really fascinating timepieces when the running

Yes, we definitely need photos. 

Posted (edited)

Imagining the detent and rest of the escapement is intact, the #1 thing is to let down all the power before removing the balance. If the watch has a fusee it probably has maintaining power so even if the barrel is let down there is still power on the fusee. So if it's not functioning, so you can't let it run down the maintaining power, block the train.

 

If you remove the balance with power on there's a strong chance of the escapement unlocking and running away, usually taking out the locking jewel and ruining the tips of the escape wheel, possibly breaking the detent if a spring detent, and possibly breaking escape pivots.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
7 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

he #1 thing is to let down all the power before removing the balance. If the watch has a fusee it probably has maintaining power so even if the barrel is let down there is still power on the fusee.

 

7 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

If you remove the balance with power on there's a strong chance of the escapement unlocking and running away, usually taking out the locking jewel and ruining the tips of the escape wheel, possibly breaking the detent if a spring detent, and possibly breaking escape pivots.

I always wondered if my friend was just being excessively cautious with the detents escapement's. Even though I have a Hamilton chronometer that all of this is happened to it. This is exactly what he was always saying so if we have a confirmation of extreme caution is needed for the escapement. Usually what they do is they block the balance wheel in shipments with something soft like a wedge of paper. Did you don't want the balance wheel spinning around all by itself what is not running or even in storage you want to make sure it's secure so it doesn't unlock. Then you just want to be extremely careful when you take the balance out with your perception that there is no power anywhere.

But it really be helpful to give us pictures before you taken apart and try not to push on the balance wheel at all resisted temptation of having the watch run

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi guys, just a little thank you for the CLOCKBARN site in America.  I purchased a TIMETRAX APMLIFIER to help with setting clocks in beat from CLOCKBARN it arrived on time and when tested worked ok.  A week later I had occasion to need it again, this time nothing the unit was dead. Checked out batteries , probes etc , nothing.    I messaged CLOCKBARN  to this effect.  I got a prompt reply that he would send a replacement which duly arrived today and having tested it it’s ok.  So I can recommend the site should you need to use it. The person,persons who run it are genuine guys.  So thank you CLOCKBARN  for your excellent service.
    • Hi there! You have learned how professional watchmakers feel about Timex. It is very difficult to find one willing to work on them, for a few reasons: 1) a lot of them wrongly believe Timex cannot be serviced, are riveted together. This is a myth. 2) when serviced, they still cannot meet the performance standards of jeweled mechanical watches (-20sec/day is good enough for a Timex) 3) customers are unwilling to pay the watchmaker's hourly bench rates because the watches are worth very little The service manual for the M33 is available at https://heritage1854.com/m33 but you also need the M32 and M31 manuals because they build on each other (31 is the base, 32 has date, 33 has day and date) https://heritage1854.com/m31 https://heritage1854.com/m32 A stuck date changeover can be due to a missing, bent or broken detent spring (part 2576 in the manual) or the date wheel (2556) got stuck or separated from its post, or maybe disengaged from the hour wheel. With a little confidence, these are not difficult to repair and parts are pretty much interchangeable with any other Timex from the same era having the same features. So it is very easy to find inexpensive spares in the form of junk watches (don't bother trying to search for individual spare parts). My recommendation would be to find a junk Timex with an M25 (older manual wind with date) and practice a little with it. Follow the service manual from the same website. The automatics are a bit more difficult to work on but once you get a feel for how they fit together, you can make an attempt at your automatic and you would be able to use many spare parts from the M25 if necessary. To work with most Timex movements, you do not need a lot of tools. Just one screwdriver, 1.4mm is a good size, tweezers, and hand levers to remove the hands plus hand pusher tools to replace them. Of course if you want to do a full cleaning and restoration more is needed. But to get it apart and diagnose, only minimal tools.
    • I do indeed have some programming and electronics know-how. 3 decades writing code for a living, and playing with microcontrollers as a hobby. 🙂 It helps with my actual living of being a voice actor because I can maintain my own equipment- no one around to replace the caps or the tube in an obscure botique mic that isn't made or supported any longer. Also saves money maintaining and cleaning my own interfaces and mixers when they develop problems in the faders and such. That said... I do have a question that, I'm sure, will betray my ignorance about certain areas that I have yet to fill in. I understand a "WW" lathe is a "Webster Whitcomb", but from what I understand that is a style of lathe and not a brand, correct? If someone would be willing to clarify and maybe expand on the terminology, it would be helpful so I can better understand the advice being given and know what I need to look into to further my knowledge. For example, a Sherline mill would appear to be either a separate piece of gear or an attachment/expansion to their smaller lathe. When you say you have a WW lathe and a sherline mill, can you say exactly what devices you have? Thank you! (I just realized I have a few Raspberry Pis and some Arduinos of various form factors around here I could probably put to good use in a scenario like you describe above).  
    • HI everyone Some context: I'm "in love" with old Timex. As someone who has always liked watches, I knew Timex (my first watch and another project) but, in fact, the brand had never really caught my attention. By pure chance I bought, in a set of two others watches, a small m24 that was sold as not working (run and stop), which actually started working by setting the date by manually moving the hands (15 days). This coincidence made me interested in its history, its reputation, simplicity/complexity of the movements and also because some were made in Portugal back in 70’s and 80’s. A few days later I found this beautiful 1975 Viscount, m33 (very low price, almost offered) and this is where I need your help.  It is in very good condition and works well (-20s per day is not a problem for me), and although the day of the week changes correctly, the date is "stuck" on the 10th. I live in a small town that only has one watchmaker and when I purchased this watch (and having read about these movements) I thought that since it was something theoretically "simple" (probably not related to the movement), he would easily solve the problem. I couldn't be more wrong. It was as if I had proposed a pact with the devil. He refused and said he wouldn't touch the watch (although he had serviced several of my watches before - Seikos and old Swiss brands). He suggested I wear the watch like this or trash it. As I mentioned in my presentation to the forum, I have some experience in digital watches, but in manual watches I am a complete beginner. I know how to remove hands, crowns and little else. I've been doing my homework, reading the technical manual and watching a few videos on YouTube. I think I can get to the part of removing the dial without any major problems. I know that in the Date Frame there is a wheel that at the top has a tab that activates the Day Wheel and that at the bottom activates the Date Lever My aim is to try not to ruin anything and  get the date working again. The help I needed (I intend to post photos) is that what should I expect? What are the most common problems that cause this system to get stuck (in this case just the date).   PS -  My secondary objective is to buy a strap at a overpriced value from the watchmaker just to rub it in his face that I managed to get the watch working properly. PS2 - In the photos you can see that before midnight the day of the week is already changing but the day of the month has not changed.   Sorry about the english. Best Regards Vasco  
    • What is it from and how did it become bent ? It should bend back - I would heat it whilst bending
×
×
  • Create New...