Jump to content

Well, I think I broke something!


Recommended Posts

hi all,

i finally took apart my eta clone (seagull 3620) movement today, including all jewels.

The disasemby process went ok .. one of the jewel springs flew off as i pulled it apart -- It took me about an hour to find it again, just as I was about to give up and packed everything up. I caught a glimpse of something shiny off the corner of my eye. I was so relieved!

However, while looking for the tiny bit (which is now safely stuck on some rodico with its respective jewel inside a jar), I found this - which i have no idea what it is, where it came from, or how it got to my work bench.

My only guess is that it's a sliver off something which i must have been a bit too rough with?

i'll plug my microscope back in tomorrow and take more photos as i assemble the movement again, and see if I can figure out where it could have come from.

It is super tiny - you can see it next to the pallet fork for scale!

Any thoughts what it might be? I feel like its question mark shape is almost mocking me.

0005.thumb.JPG.b7bf08caa542c348a21fb259b7bbec06.JPG0001.thumb.JPG.99fffb3eadea5695e9c88f9d26d0cbaa.JPG0003.thumb.JPG.4b2d469fe923e197d4731cee3f649e14.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Watchscience said:

hi all,

i finally took apart my eta clone (seagull 3620) movement today, including all jewels.

The disasemby process went ok .. one of the jewel springs flew off as i pulled it apart -- It took me about an hour to find it again, just as I was about to give up and packed everything up. I caught a glimpse of something shiny off the corner of my eye. I was so relieved!

However, while looking for the tiny bit (which is now safely stuck on some rodico with its respective jewel inside a jar), I found this - which i have no idea what it is, where it came from, or how it got to my work bench.

My only guess is that it's a sliver off something which i must have been a bit too rough with?

i'll plug my microscope back in tomorrow and take more photos as i assemble the movement again, and see if I can figure out where it could have come from.

It is super tiny - you can see it next to the pallet fork for scale!

Any thoughts what it might be? I feel like its question mark shape is almost mocking me.

0005.thumb.JPG.b7bf08caa542c348a21fb259b7bbec06.JPG0001.thumb.JPG.99fffb3eadea5695e9c88f9d26d0cbaa.JPG0003.thumb.JPG.4b2d469fe923e197d4731cee3f649e14.JPG

TG is quite correct i often find the stuff in cheap swiss. Your tweezers do need a bit of alignment fella. Make some investment into learning tweezer and screwdriver dressing. It will greatly improve your handling of parts which will add up to less losses.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all! That’s (semi) reassuring .. it’s a bit poor that the movement would fall apart like this!

Yes - it is indeed a seagull AliExpress special!

Incidentally, so are my tweezers. I should have expected as much for $6 for a set of 10! 🤦🏼
They looked ok initially but under high magnification they don’t hold up very well.

Thanks for the tips re. Dressing these! I’ll look into how I can improve them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tweezers and screwdrivers are worth putting a little money into. Anything you use constantly. If you were to now go buy a pair of Dumont #2 or #5, they're just $6 more expensive than they would have been had you bought them the first time.

My kneejerk on the detritus is that it looks like a shock spring that went through the wash. Flatten it out, and it looks like it's missing the the end of one tine, and the hook that fits into the setting. If you have all of yours, then it's probably Sea Gull QC failings.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Speaking to the tweezers, I've found an awesome budget option is getting some precision ESD tweezers which are normally for electronics repair. They seem to be of higher quality than cheap dumont clones.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tweezers are essential, and you really do get what you pay for. If you treat them right, meaning you don’t drop them or use them to pry things apart, you won’t even have to dress them that often.

I find that you really do have to get Bergeon or Dumont tweezers… other brands require a lot more effort to squeeze them… Makes a lot of difference to hand fatigue or parts flying off.

If you are worried about cost, even pre-owned second hand ones are better than just about any brand, although you will have to dress them since they might have been dropped.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, ifibrin said:

… other brands require a lot more effort to squeeze them

This is very true. Dumont tweezer tension does feel just right. You are able to reduce the tension on cheaper makes but there is a fair bit of effort and time involved to make a good job of it. Ive done it a couple of times and was getting a bit fed up towards the end and thought i wont bother again. 

4 hours ago, ifibrin said:

If you are worried about cost, even pre-owned second hand ones are better than just about any brand, although you will have to dress them since they might have been dropped.

If i can just add to ifibrin very good idea here. I did once win an auction of 14 pairs of dumont all sizes and shapes for 60 notes. A great buy. But unfortunately a lot of them were carbon steel and frequently magnetise themselves which is rather frustrating sometimes. Although one was a no.7 bent anti mag. and is just fantastic to use and worth that cost alone. So if you go this route just be aware of that .

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just got these good quality diamond files from the bay for Just a fiver, we all love a bargain dont we. Brand names are J.K.Smit  and Triefus, two old diamond tool makers so not cheap crap.
    • Its a touch under ive just remeasured it and added a wrist shot. Unbelievably it was £13  plus 3 postage. You dont find watches that nice for that money every day of the week. Maybe removing the epilame in the oil region improves the purpose of it. We may know very soon as i emailed Episurf 4 hours ago to ask that exact question. 🤞they are happy to provide an answer for us. How do you fancy trying a stearic acid vapour treatment experiment  H .  Shall i have a go this afternoon ?
    • That's the size of my grandfather's Ernest Borel watch. Definitely not a lady's watch! 👍
    • Thanks H It does have a big crown for the watch , it could be considered a ladies watch these days i guess, it measures 33mm case 36mm with that large crown 18mm lug space. A tad small for a guy of today, but still very wearable. The photo was deceptive so here it is adorning my 7 1/4 " wrist. It need some love to make it run better. The hair coils are touching so running a bit fast at the moment,  not caused by magnetism, and maybe just a clean and a service. The dtal is in fantastic shape.
    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
×
×
  • Create New...