Assembling the Bulova Astronaut 214 bezel
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In addition to the servicing guides do you have all of these supplemental information that Omega has? The reason I bring this up is the service guides might cover lubrication but things like epilam aren't always covered not mentally get to the newest generation of documents where it might actually mentions in the technical work normally it's in the supplemental guide? By mixing did you mean one drop of one oil mixed in with one drop of another oil to make a new lubrication or what exactly? Oh and I've attached a PDF the lubrication guide which by the way I do not follow sort of. Notice on the very bottom of the page a reference to? I just copy and paste something from the bottom The Synt-HP oils (9101, 9102, 9103, 9104) are preferentially in use for ruby bearings. For brass bearings, we recommend Microgliss D-4 or D-5. Notice for ruby bearings you can use the HP oils but if you're dealing with metal on metal you're not supposed to. Except this now conflicts with other aspects of Swatch group including Omega. Then the D series Are not synthetic so they have a shorter life? Then lubrication is such a bazaar subject with a very opinionated people and a considerable conflict with various documentation of depending upon who you look at. For instance you look at their recommendations for balance 9010 or 8000 which are both very light oils unless you're working in Arctic conditions. Oh then attaching another PDF. What makes this PDF interesting as far as I'm concerned is we have a company that actually grasps lubrication versus probably just about everybody else. Basically any time using 9010 are supposed to epilam everything including the balance staff pivots although finding that out as little bit harder. Typically anytime using HP oils you're supposed to be epilam ing as it has a habit of migrating without epilam. But personal experience has been 9020 will stay in place although that's just my personal observation for what it's worth. Then we have this silly company the oil of choice 9020. So if you look they lubricate the entire watch with only three lubricants they have a grease I would you something different I like 9504 they have 9020 I love 9020 and they have the grease for the escapement oh and you're not mistaken that using 9020 on the balance pivots other than me as far as I had tell they're the only ones. As I'm typically not working on little tiny watches my lubrication of choice is 9020 for the balance pivots for the gear train for the center wheel I usually use HP 1300 but I can probably use 9020 there I am suspicious when at the bottom of lubrication chart the reference to not to use HP lubricants on metal on metal we don't get an answer of why other then I believe you need epilam. This is where a lot of companies use the HP 1300 on the key less and they epilam the entire T list to keep it from spreading all over the universe. tableEN lubrication watches.pdf PIAGET 12p.pdf -
A magnet attracts this lost one, big strong magnets. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Those bath are are not the same as an ultrasonic machine that we know. They only shake....and do not produce the cavitation bubbles that clean surfaces -
The main reason it's advantageous to start with a pocket watch movement is that the parts are slightly larger and therefore easier to handle. You'll quickly discover that watch movement components are much smaller and more challenging to work with than you probably imagine—especially if you're used to looking at all the macro photos on WRT. There used to be plenty of Unitas 6497 and 6498 movements in inexpensive pocket watches on eBay. Try searching for "17 jewels Swiss pocket watch." If you see a separate sub-second dial on the watch face, there's a good chance it's a Unitas movement. Once you look at a photo of the movement itself, it's usually easy to confirm—these are often engraved with names like "Arnex" or "Nastrix" and are of high quality. The image above comes from a current listing on eBay. The seller is asking $60 but is open to offers. Don’t buy unless there's a clear photo of the movement! Another advantage is that most of these movements have Incabloc shock protection, which is relatively easy to work with when starting. Both of your watches use Incabloc, too! (https://www.ebay.com/itm/146553701302) Here's a link to CousinsUK.com, where they sell an excellent Chinese clone of these Unitas movements with Incabloc. I find working with an original Swiss Unitas (now ETA) more enjoyable: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/3-hands-seagull?code=CHI3600M Another great thing is that there’s a huge selection of cases, hands, and dials for these movements on eBay—perfect if you’d like to build your own watch later on. Good luck! -
I've done nickel plating in the past but using nickel solution and always plate with copper first as nickel bonds better to it and it removes any blemishes.
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