Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As I await the arrival of some horology-specific tools (and two old Elgin movements) I see that almost all videos on YouTube show a Timegrapher 1000, watch cleaning machine and main spring winder. Until I've actually torn a movement apart and put one back together I don't think I need a Timegrapher (just seeing a dead train moving again will be my goal). As for a cleaning machine: washing parts in small batches in glass petri dishes or jars will be my initial plan and simply shelling out 10 USD for a new mainspring will serve to eliminate the need for a spring winder. Part of me knows that I get obsessive about things but I also know that despite best intentions I'm likely to fail. I had this grand idea once upon a time that I was going to build a tube amplifier and subsequently better understand the circuits involved in guitar amps. I bought a kit and did indeed build a working amp but during the build I realized that I wasn't very handy with a soldering pencil. Some things I do well and others, well Malcolm Gladwell says you need 10,000 hours or so...

My biggest worry here is that my depth perception will impact my ability to grab screws with tweezers.

We should know by this time next week.

Patience

  • Like 1
Posted

Having worked on printed circuits for decades, soldering takes practice. I can solder much better than I can grab small screws with tweezers. There are a lot of things going on when you hand solder and its easy to lose control.

Its taken a couple of years but I can usually deal with small screws, even the ones in those tiny ladies seiko movements without launching. Its pretty obvious this hobby will test your patience.

One of the less expensive game changers for me was buying a set of real watchmaker tweezers. I realized the tweezers I used for surface mount assembly of circuit boards are too springy for watch work. 

The other big game changer for me was a stereo microscope. 

I still have a crappy set of mainspring winders. Some day I will buy the Bergeon set when I cant stand it any more.

Best of luck, take your time, enjoy.

Matt

  • Like 1
Posted

I should add there is an incredible amount of talent on this site always ready to answer questions in a friendly manner.

I cant image starting down the watchmaking trail without this site.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi GRSNOVI  With watch repair  is not to try running  before you can walk, just take small bites at a time and as your profficiency and dexterity inprove and you gain confidence go thet step further. You will never be alone as the members here will always be at your elbow with  advice and help. I my self use my left eye with a loupe , no scope except  for the use  of parts and jewels for close inspection , For normal  work is done mostly one eyed. Depending on what I am doing soetimes use a binocular head band.  With practise with one eye you will be able to gain the depth perception no problem. Have confidence in your own ability.  As for tools collect them as you need them.  attached are a couple of documents to read.       All the very best.

1612608791_ToolsfortheHobbyist (2) (1).pdf TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, Nibbler said:

...There are a lot of things going on when you hand solder...

Thanks Matt!

I kept unsoldering what I had finished the day before (because I wasn't watching where else the soldering pencil was touching). In the end it all worked out. 🙂

Posted

There is an app called watch accuracy meter free to download on your smart phone, shows accuracy and beat error but not amplitude, it will do until you decide weather you want to invest in tools. Mainspring winder is not a must have tool for non pro work either. I must have overhauled at least five hundered movements before I heard of ultrasonic cleaning machines.  

A cheap or scrap movement and some basic tools to tear down and reassemble will do to begin with, Oh plus a  tooth brush and some lighter fluid.   I haven't lost a spring eversince I discovered zip loc bags.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, grsnovi said:

My biggest worry here is that my depth perception will impact my ability to grab screws with tweezers.

Hi grsnovi. I was in your shoes at one point in time. In retrospec, my biggest regrets were:
1. Not getting a good tweezer. A simple Dumont No. 2 will do when starting out.
2. Not buying the Bergeon 4040 movement holder.

These two simple tools will vastly improve your experience working alone without a mentor.

Since you have experience soldering, I recommend using an affordable LCD microscope (used for PCB works) over using a traditional loupe, see:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?trafficChannel=main&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=lcd+microscope&ltype=wholesale&SortType=total_tranpro_desc&groupsort=1

These microscopes can also video record you as you work. This will allow you to review what you were doing and help you when you reassemble the movement. I tend to forget which part goes where, so I find this feature very useful.

Posted

Thanks Zero!

I've got both a Dumont #2 and the Bergeon 4040 holder. I also have had experience with the USB digital microscopes from a previous life. We'll see how it goes.

Posted
13 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

There is an app called watch accuracy meter free to download...

Boy, it sure seems like there's an app for everything! I wouldn't have even thought to check for one for this. Thanks!

Posted
7 hours ago, oldhippy said:

You can only do your best...

True. As to clocks, I guess if I had grown up with mechanical clocks they'd be of more interest but alas my interest is in the little clocks we wear. I'm hoping that starting out on pocket watches will give me a taste and I'll figure out how suited I am to close work.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have acquired a Citizen Leopard 36000 watch. My reason for purchasing it was my desire to own a timepiece with a 36,000 BPH movement, and the price was reasonable. Another motivating factor was gaining hands-on experience with the mechanism. The watch is in good condition, but I intend to fully disassemble it for maintenance. First and foremost, if anyone has prior experience with this particular model, I would greatly appreciate their insights. I do not have access to Citizen’s specialized lubricants and will need to use the ones available to me, such as 9010, 8000, and 8300 grease. Additionally, I do not possess the appropriate oil for the pallet jewels and will only be able to clean them.
    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
×
×
  • Create New...