Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Among a small haul of wristwatches I took in trade (some of which I may post to the 404 thread) was this little clock movement.  I need a bit of help.

Before I can even attempt finding a pin-lever for it, I need to learn more about it.  I know precious little about clocks; they are not my forté, though I can work on them.  In one picture I drew arrows marking the missing lever and missing setting shaft/knob.  There were no markings on or under the dial.  The only markings it seems to have are: "Fabrication Francais" [made in France] and "JF".  It is not large, maybe 47 mm dia.  If there is any way I can search for parts, I'd like to try.  Anyone here encounter its like?

Addendum: Google is no help with this.  And, without the lever, all wheels move easily and smoothly and the spring is intact and seems strong, and its ratchet works well.  Also, despite being slightly coned, the hairspring breathes right, and with just a light puff of air, the balance will swing for almost 30 sec.  The balance is quite good. I'd love to see it run.  Then maybe come up with a worthy case for it.

IMG_20220106_214540.jpg

IMG_20220106_213733.jpg

IMG_20220106_214339.jpg

IMG_20220106_215039.jpg

IMG_20220106_214618.jpg

Edited by KarlvonKoln
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Not much help I's sorry to say. The pallets are completely missing they would be pin pallets. What is under the dial? that might give a clue. Is the balance staff OK only in the third photo the balance wheel looks to be at a funny angle. 

If you look here you will see a photo of the same movement posted some time ago. The movement is in a right mess but it does show the pallets. How about sending the person a message to see if he could help you with the pallets.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Thank you much, OH and Watchweasol.  Based on this new data, I have info to use in looking for a donor movement, or I can try measuring out and making a replica lever.  And with the photos I can make it look like the original if I have to.  OldHippy, would you say the pivots on the lever staff should look just like those on the other wheels?  I noticed it had its own cock, so the staff would be a tiny bit longer, but I didn't know if there would be other differences as a result.
I'm thinking this doesn't look like a very high-end expensive clock.  But it should be good practice for me.  I do need to expand my clock experience.

There were no other marks under the dial or on back of it, and nothing out of the ordinary.  And the balance seems fine and turns beautifully, but I admit my camera angle was strange.  I was closer than I should have been and it may have resulted in parallax distortion.

Edited by KarlvonKoln
Posted

The pivots on any staff are never the same as the pivots on the train. If you mean should the pivots be the same on the pallets as the pivots on the wheel train then yes very much. But don't forget to take into consideration the end shake and the diameter of the holes. There is a heck of a lot of working out entrance and exit of the balance to pallets for it to work properly plus getting the pallet pins correct and in the right place. Normally it is 8 beats per minute.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

The pivots on any staff are never the same as the pivots on the train. If you mean should the pivots be the same on the pallets as the pivots on the wheel train then yes very much. But don't forget to take into consideration the end shake and the diameter of the holes. There is a heck of a lot of working out entrance and exit of the balance to pallets for it to work properly plus getting the pallet pins correct and in the right place. Normally it is 8 beats per minute.  

Oh yes, making a pin lever won't be easy at all.  But I will learn things.  If I cannot find another donor-movement of the exact kind, then this little movement will become a teaching tool for me.  I have a couple brass clock-wheel blanks, and some pivot wire and other steel and brass rod.  I don't mind sitting here working on the math and seeing how one radius would intersect another, distance between pins, entry and exit of impulse tab on balance staff, whatever I need to do.  And if I make a lever that doesn't work, I will figure out why and make the next one differently.  It is my ambition to build a whole clock some day, but that will take a while so I am learning little bits a piece at a time.  This little movement didn't really cost me anything so I won't be losing money in practicing.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
    • A few things you should find out before you can mske a decision of what to do. As Richard said, what is the crown and all of the crown components made of . Then also the stem .  The crown looks to have a steel washer that retains a gasket. So be careful with what chemicals you use to dissolve any stem adhesives or the use of heat. You might swell or melt the gasket unless you are prepared to change that also . The steel washer maybe reactive to alum. Something I've just used to dissolve a broken screw from a plate. First drilled out the centre of the screw with a 0.5mm carbide . Dipped only the section that held the broken screw in Rustins rust remover. This is 40 % phosphoric acid. 3 days and the screw remains were completely dissolved, no trace of steel in the brass threads. A black puddle left in the solution.
    • I suppose this will add to the confusion I have a roller jewel assortment. It lists out American pocket watches for Elgin 18 size and even 16 size it's a 50. But not all the various companies used 50-50 does seem to be common one company had a 51 and the smallest is 43. American parts are always interesting? Francis Elgin for mainsprings will tell you the thickness of the spring other companies will not even though the spring for the same number could come in a variety of thicknesses. But if we actually had the model number of your watch we would find it probably makes a reference that the roller jewel came in different dimensions. So overlook the parts book we find that? So it appears to be 18 and 16 size would be the same sort of the arson different catalog numbers and as I said we don't have your Mongol know which Log number were supposed to be using. Variety of materials garnered her sapphire single or double but zero mention about diameters. Then in a section of rollers in this case rollers with jewels we do get this down in the notes section Roller specifications but of course zero reference to the jewel size. I was really hoping the roller jewel assortment would give us sizes it doesn't really. But it does show a picture of how one particular roller jewel gauge is used  
    • Seems to still do it through my mobile data, I use an android phone almost exclusively, but I'll double check it. Thanks mark Strange, I'll try my laptop that utilities edge. I've been on site half hour since I got home, it hasn't done it yet. Thanks John
    • At work, I'm on MS Edge, not through chose, on my phone, chrome, no issues with either. 
×
×
  • Create New...