It's Paul here from Melbourne Australia. Just recently pulled out a box of watches that were in a cupboard - going to get them all working hopefully! I'm an absolute watch newbie! I like working on cars and so decided to have a go at fixing these watches (Youtube, internet and forums are a great help!) while in COVID-19 lockdown.
I have replaced a battery in one Cartier and one Longines so far - both working now! I have a bright torch, magnifying glass and a very cheap set of jewellers screwdrivers. I was very careful with the Cartier as it had six tiny screws holding the back case on - my eyes aren't as good as they used to be!!!
Anyway, hoping someone can help with a Cartier clasp (stainless steel and gold plate Must de Cartier 21) shown here in thumbnail.
One half of the clasp holds securely (hole fits tightly over the post), the other half doesn't. I assume that over time, the hole on one side has been worn and is now too big to fit snugly over its corresponding post? What are my possible options here?
Replace part/s of the bracelet? (Not sure where I can get new/used parts.)
Build up the offending post or offending hole - use some JB-Weld?
Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I actually have a couple problems I could use some help with. I’ll start with the more serious one I guess. I don’t have any trouble getting the back off my watches or changing the battery, but every time I use my tool to snap the back back on, something happens to the crown pin. It just lets go and comes out. I thought it was a strange occurrence the first time but I tried another one this week and got the same results. I’ve done this same thing on hundreds of other watches of different types and brands but never ran into this problem before. Can someone please help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
Also, a couple of my watches don’t seem to be able to adjust to my teeny tiny wrist size. In my Monarch, the majority of the links don’t have holes to remove the pins. Is there any other way to remove a couple links. Any advice would be appreciated immensely!!!
Hi, the bracelet on my SARB033 is a D385-3C, it's currently too small for me to wear. I have two spare links, but no pins for them. On removing a pin from the bracelet I found it to be nothing like a cotter pin, nor did it appear to be a "pin and tube". It was more like a pin with a thicker end that was knurled .
I'm looking for resources to purchase a few of these pins, also links and pins for a JDM Seiko (a Grey Ghost titanium kinetic)
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Hi there watch repair experts and fans! My first time here so please be gentle with me
It concerns the ladies watch you see in the pics and, in particular, its rather unusual metal bracelet strap.
I want to make the strap a few links shorter.
Normally with metal bracelets it is, of course, all about pushing out the pins, taking out the bits of the bracelet you don't need and then putting it all back together.
But THIS one has a weird-looking two-section bracelet which, as far as I can see, is held together by very small screws (?) from each side and no pins involved.
Obviously I am wondering what to do to get the pins/screws out.
Another thing of course i that I will have to take one link from either side of the bracelet.
Anyone seen a bracelet like this before. HOW to do this adjustment??
I hope you can see what you need to in these photos.
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Thank you for the link hippy. My concern at this point is how to hold the balance in the lathe. Chucks like on a lathe or a pin vise are good at holding simple cylindrical objects, like drill bits or a cylinder of whatever you're about to cut into. But a balance is a complex surface and I'm having trouble envisioning how exactly it would fit into the lathe chuck.
I am guessing this is akin to tuning a piano and is an acquired skill. One thing I saw on a 7750 I worked on was the finger was up high up on the gear. Not all of the finger face was touching the gear. I thought it was bent and I was thinking about bending it down. I decided to leave it alone as it was working. Matt
Bulova Seaking Automatic from 1975 I believe. Just restored and serviced this for my next door neighbour. It's 'on test' for the next day. He told me he got it for his tenth wedding anniversary and has been in a drawer for 25 years or so. Going to give it back to him tomorrow evening. I hope he will be pleased to wear it again.
Normally you would hold one side of the balance staff in the chuck in your lathe while sharpening the other side with an Arkansas stone . This is the type I used and it's what you need. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/arkansas-stone-type-triangular-size-92mm-x-10mm-ta75
Hi everyone, The last two 7750s I've worked on have had the same issue where the watch will stop with the chronograph engaged right when the minute counter is going to roll over. I know this is a common problem and is usually solved by adjusting the minute counter jumper. However adjusting the jumper did not solve the issue. Either I am not oiling something correctly, or there is an issue with the finger on the chronograph wheel on both movements. I can't think what else could be a problem. I have attached a photo of the last movement if anyone has an idea by looking, as the chrono wheel finger is visible. Both adjustments look fine to me, but I would really appreciate any tips someone might give.