It's Paul here from Melbourne Australia. Just recently pulled out a box of watches that were in a cupboard - going to get them all working hopefully! I'm an absolute watch newbie! I like working on cars and so decided to have a go at fixing these watches (Youtube, internet and forums are a great help!) while in COVID-19 lockdown.
I have replaced a battery in one Cartier and one Longines so far - both working now! I have a bright torch, magnifying glass and a very cheap set of jewellers screwdrivers. I was very careful with the Cartier as it had six tiny screws holding the back case on - my eyes aren't as good as they used to be!!!
Anyway, hoping someone can help with a Cartier clasp (stainless steel and gold plate Must de Cartier 21) shown here in thumbnail.
One half of the clasp holds securely (hole fits tightly over the post), the other half doesn't. I assume that over time, the hole on one side has been worn and is now too big to fit snugly over its corresponding post? What are my possible options here?
Replace part/s of the bracelet? (Not sure where I can get new/used parts.)
Build up the offending post or offending hole - use some JB-Weld?
Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I actually have a couple problems I could use some help with. I’ll start with the more serious one I guess. I don’t have any trouble getting the back off my watches or changing the battery, but every time I use my tool to snap the back back on, something happens to the crown pin. It just lets go and comes out. I thought it was a strange occurrence the first time but I tried another one this week and got the same results. I’ve done this same thing on hundreds of other watches of different types and brands but never ran into this problem before. Can someone please help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
Also, a couple of my watches don’t seem to be able to adjust to my teeny tiny wrist size. In my Monarch, the majority of the links don’t have holes to remove the pins. Is there any other way to remove a couple links. Any advice would be appreciated immensely!!!
Hi, the bracelet on my SARB033 is a D385-3C, it's currently too small for me to wear. I have two spare links, but no pins for them. On removing a pin from the bracelet I found it to be nothing like a cotter pin, nor did it appear to be a "pin and tube". It was more like a pin with a thicker end that was knurled .
I'm looking for resources to purchase a few of these pins, also links and pins for a JDM Seiko (a Grey Ghost titanium kinetic)
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Hi there watch repair experts and fans! My first time here so please be gentle with me
It concerns the ladies watch you see in the pics and, in particular, its rather unusual metal bracelet strap.
I want to make the strap a few links shorter.
Normally with metal bracelets it is, of course, all about pushing out the pins, taking out the bits of the bracelet you don't need and then putting it all back together.
But THIS one has a weird-looking two-section bracelet which, as far as I can see, is held together by very small screws (?) from each side and no pins involved.
Obviously I am wondering what to do to get the pins/screws out.
Another thing of course i that I will have to take one link from either side of the bracelet.
Anyone seen a bracelet like this before. HOW to do this adjustment??
I hope you can see what you need to in these photos.
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I bought this for my new watch bench. It is nice but because of the way you work on a watch bench, the lamp is mounted on the same plane as your work space (this is higher than if it were a typical work bench). As a result, the lamp cannot pivot upward enough to get optimal positions. So, what I had to do was design and print an short extender that pushes the fulcrum of the lamp away from the manufactured pivot point. This allows me more range of motion. I am pretty happy with how it turned out.
Did a bit more today on my Hettich. I also mucked around with practising on the top plate from the second Hettich that I bought. The calico wheel can leave marks and I am being gentle. I am certainly not pushing the plate into the wheel. I could easily stall the bench grinder that I am polishing on. I am wondering if Hettich started to use a lower grade of brass? I still cannot polish the brass to a mirror finish. On my Hettich (older) I have had to emery one of the posts that supports the movement and after 600 grit then 1500 grit, straight to Tripoli on my stitched wheel, then green on the calico wheel and the post is spotless. Absolutely gleams. post has a steel nut on the top of it that was rusty and affected by the battery acid. It is now polished as best as can be done and then I mucked around with a bit of heat and have changed the colour of the nut which looks quite good now. It was black originally. I have done several jobs now by hand where a having a lathe would have been so much quicker. Have to get rid of the Esprit first. Then I might have a chance.