Jump to content

Bluing hands

PeterS
 Share

Recommended Posts

PeterS WRT Addict

PeterS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I get you now. Put the hand in the middle of the tray and go with the flame in circles around the sides avoiding the centre, get the heat to work its way from the sides rather than going lengthways heating it up.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
KarlvonKoln Distinguished Member

KarlvonKoln

Posted
Posted
On 5/3/2021 at 5:14 AM, oldhippy said:

Blotching is a sign of grease which clockboy has said. I always preferred an old English penny to brass shavings. It takes a few practises to get it right. When blued quench the hand in oil it gives a nice shine. That is how I would blue clock screws, getting them all the same colour takes practise.   

Is there a particular kind of oil that works well for this, or any kind that we should *not* use?  Just curious.  I have some old hands I plan to re-blue, and I felt I should learn to do this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MechanicMike Super WRT Addict

MechanicMike

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, PeterS said:

I get you now. Put the hand in the middle of the tray and go with the flame in circles around the sides avoiding the centre, get the heat to work its way from the sides rather than going lengthways heating it up.

Bingo! I couldn't have said it better myself!😊 

Since you're doing some bluing, I had posted a chip tray I made back in January. Works pretty good. Weasol had a good idea to use a clock mainspring barrel and OH had a good idea to use an old penny, which I'm going to try sometime. 

Screenshot_20210606-155236_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20210606-155256_Samsung Internet.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MechanicMike Super WRT Addict

MechanicMike

Posted
Posted
On 6/6/2021 at 9:42 AM, KarlvonKoln said:

Is there a particular kind of oil that works well for this, or any kind that we should *not* use?  Just curious.  I have some old hands I plan to re-blue, and I felt I should learn to do this.

I don't have a clue if there is a correct answer. I can only tell you what I have used and that's any kind of oil that might be at arms length in my machine shop lol it could be lightweight motor oil, way oil, used oil. Just not too heavy. If you find a different answer please let me know! But I've had good luck with them. Real lightweight motor oil seems to work best for me. 2 cycle oil too. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
MechanicMike Super WRT Addict

MechanicMike

Posted
Posted
On 6/6/2021 at 9:42 AM, KarlvonKoln said:

Is there a particular kind of oil that works well for this, or any kind that we should *not* use?  Just curious.  I have some old hands I plan to re-blue, and I felt I should learn to do this.

Forgot to mention mineral oil, food grade and cooking stuff and then theres the expensive commercially made stuff. You'll have to experiment. Also, look up vids on YouTube on "oil bluing." 

Should tell you-I don't use oils all the time. They can become brittle and crack I've found. Sometimes I let them air cool and then just shine/polish them lightly. 

Lots of trial and error on useless hands so I'm not afraid to wreck them!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Dmitry
      Eta 2970-1 rotor mount stops watch

      By Dmitry · Posted

      Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • KarlvonKoln
      B-Dip residue?

      By KarlvonKoln · Posted

      One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Curare
      Spell Check

      By Curare · Posted

      Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Curare
      Replacing armoured crystal in a front loading watch case…

      By Curare · Posted

      Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Zendoc
      Replacing armoured crystal in a front loading watch case…

      By Zendoc · Posted

      Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
×
×
  • Create New...