Jump to content

matabog

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

I have the Amscope 7x to 45x zoom, great scope and very useable. It's a little pricey for a hobbyist, but it's well worth buying once and buying correctly. Mine has 200 mm working distanace with wide field optics, similar to this one:-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5X-90X-Binocular-Stereo-Microscope-w-Ball-Bearing-Stand-Fluo-Light-/400906159430?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d57de8546

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This is the scope I just got this week. 3.5 - 90 Amscope. Working distance varies from about 5 cm at 15 - 90x , 100 cm at 7.5 - 45x, and 200 cm at 3.5 - 22.5x.

It came with a 0.5 and 2x Barlow lens. I decided not to get the boom for several reasons. First is the tip over issue with a long boom. Second is the possibility of

Shaking under higher magnification. Since the scope is not heavy, I have no problem with moving it around my table. It also did not come with an objective

LED light which is fine with me since in the 100 cm working distance ( 7 - 45x )

A wider objective from the light might interfere with space. There is a place between the post and the microscope for a light source which I will get later ( or make one up ). I decided to play around with a balance spring by removing the collet and putting a smaller collet ( see picture ). Had to hold the iPad on the ocular piece. No CCD yet but the trinocular is there for that option. To be able to use it, one needs to pull a knob that deflects the image from your left eyepiece to the trinocular thus loosing your stereoscopic view. The eye piece is a 10x with a 20 mm eye relief which makes it easy for peeps with glasses. Clarity from edge to edge is excellent. So far, I am very happy with this scope. I'll post some more

Pics when I get working.

Hope this shed some more info for those who are interested.

This is the link to this scope from eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190756829171?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Cheers,

Ed

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[attachment=5292:ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431132706.837445.jpg]

Edited by evn137
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AmScope-SE304R-P-Sharp-Forward-Stereo-Microscope-20X-40X-/381197146212?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Does anybody know anything about this microscope? It's probably chinese, but the price is amazing.

 

Is it too good to be true?

 

Thank you,

Bogdan

 

If that first picture is cocktail corn cobs, it's useless for watch work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*joking*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • After a bit further research could it possibly be an AS 970?
    • Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
    • Oh and this almost perfect third wheel pivot and slightly set mainspring  Ah ok yes i see what you mean, good idea. I'll try that if i fluff this one up. The image isn't great quality but i like the idea though.
    • Why cut the paper, cut a square around the image and grind to it. 
    • I did try that last time Rich , i traced the image from the Bestfit book which is the actual size. But its more difficut to cut the shape from paper than it is to grind the steel to shape. This way is pretty easy and the final shaping is done when fitting the part. There are a couple of things i will do differently next time, clamping the 2 pieces together with a drill press will help to hold while scribing the shape in. This was a bit tricky having only one hole, if using the pins and cork the drill size needs to match the pin diameter so there is no movement at all from the template. This movement hasn't finished frying me yet, damaged thread in the plate crown wheel hole and two rubbed in cracked jewels, thats gonna be much more fun.
×
×
  • Create New...