Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm replacing the dial (old one is damaged) on a vintage Tavannes Pocket Watch.  The new dial fits perfectly with one exception:  the pins are further away from the edge of the dial than the old dial and need to be relocated.  I am sure I can't solder new pins on this new dial due to the possibility of damaging the beautiful enamel finish.  I've attached a photo of the front and back of the new dial.

 

post-814-0-35529000-1427587863_thumb.jpgpost-814-0-38793100-1427587880_thumb.jpg

 

Can anyone offer a suggestion on how to reattach the pins to the dial (without risking damage to it of course:)

 

Thanks,  -Bruce

Posted

Hi Bruce.

You've definitely got a a tricky one here. I might be wrong, but I'm sure pins can be soft soldered onto the dial. Being ceramic, the heat required should not effect the finish. The ceramic residue on the rear of the dial would first have to be carefully ground off; not easy when you consider how hard the stuff is. You would then require some sort of fixture to hold the pins in correct alignment and the whole dial would have to be gently brought up to temperature to prevent cracks before actually doing the soldering. I sure wouldn't want to attempt it.

You can buy replacement dial pins/feet with solder pads here:- http://www.daveswatchparts.com/MaterialAssortments.html

I would suggest purchasing the feet and fixing them with superglue. It would be a lot safer.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm with Geo on this one - enamel dials are very prone to cracking. An alternative to superglue (apart from a perfectly fitting replacement) is to use sticky pads. It's not a solution I care for, but they do work and they won't cause any damage. There's also the question of grinding down the existing feet...

  • Like 1
Posted

Avoid superglue as it gives of gasses which can cause untold damage to watch internals. Dial pads are the safe route or use a 2 part epoxy to stick on feet.

Posted

Hi BL, I would never recommend it for use within the confines of a watch, anything on the face of a dial or for holding a crystal in place and have said so before on this forum.

In this case the pins are on the back of the dial that has been separated from the watch, so once fully cured there shouldn't be a problem with fuming. Having said that, I've never had any real success glueing dial feet regardless of what glue I used and I've tried a few. :(

Posted

A note here, I 've tried superglue and haven't been able to make it work...it usually breaks again when fitting the dial on the holes in the ring/movement. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I need to revive this topic for clearer answer. As far as I read here there is no proper way to reposition pins on a dial. So what is to be done if there is no exactly the same replacement dial? Is this an open subject?

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • First of all, thank you for the pdf file of the book on how to replace a gem. So, if there is a problem with the ruby in the movement, should I buy a new or used movement and replace it? When I watch videos on YouTube of people fixing used watches, I feel like there should be a way to buy a gem. Is there no way to buy it?
    • I suppose @donutdan is not forced to earn his living by repairing watches.  I suppose he does it as a hobby and wants to gain experience, to get better in watchmaking and time is not the issue. Then @donutdan should rather try to repair the damage instead of swap parts from a maybe intact other movement. Swapping parts is not watchmaking. And often swapped parts are not the expected solution of all problems. All mentioned damages are repairable. Frank  
    • Yeah I figured that one out when I googled and realized that my spindle is actually from Horia. It's smooth with no screwable cap.
    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
×
×
  • Create New...