Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey guys, so I’m having a problem with potentially the balance and or escape wheel. Did a complete coa on this movement. Also replaced the upper escape wheel jewel/spring/setting. Now the watch runs but, on the vibrograph shows a lot of time loss. When I press down lightly on the balance bridge a bit it stops, and have to turn it to get it going again. Been stressing me out. Checked all the pivots and jewels and everything seems fine. Any and all info would be very much appreciated!

Edited by Yallabye
Posted

Since you replaced that upper (in the plate?) shock setting you probably pressed it too far and now you have no end shake at all. You need a tiny bit of shake there. Less than the train, but more than zero. 

Was it a Rolex part, or generic?

Posted
30 minutes ago, Tudor said:

Since you replaced that upper (in the plate?) shock setting you probably pressed it too far and now you have no end shake at all. You need a tiny bit of shake there. Less than the train, but more than zero. 

Was it a Rolex part, or generic?

There is a bit of endshake. Is it supposed to be flush on the underside or have a very tiny bit of lippage? It is all genuine. 

Posted

 

45 minutes ago, Yallabye said:

. When I press down lightly on the balance bridge a bit it stops, and have to turn it to get it going again. 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

You beat me to it, while I was compsing. fast typer.

Posted
25 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

Sorry can you please explain what the cock screw is and “shelac keepin pallets” 

Posted
2 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Sorry can you please explain what the cock screw is and “shelac keepin pallets” 

Cock screw is the one that holds the cock down on mainplate, in cases you suspect end stones might be pushing on pivot end( no or very little end shake) you can releive such possible pressure on end stones by loosening the said screw, if the are no end stones, the jewel itself can be pushing on shoulder seat of the pivot.

Shelac is the stuff that acts like glue but wont hurt the base metal over time, it is used on fork pallets jewels to keep them from moving in fork slot, nearly all petrolium base cleaning solutions dissolve shelac rendering pallet jewels loose to move in the fork slot, which ruins escapement at the pallets and can be a cause for a host of escapement disfunctions.

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Yallabye said:

There is a bit of endshake. Is it supposed to be flush on the underside or have a very tiny bit of lippage? It is all genuine. 

The amount of exposure doesn’t matter- the end shake does. Try Joe’s idea of loosening the cock screw and see if things improve. If so, you may need to press the setting out a hair. 

Did you happen to do any hair spring work? At rest, is the roller in line with the pallet fork (straight line between balance pivot, fork and escape wheel)?

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

Ok so Adjusting the cock screw did help a lot but it is still about 1 minute 45secs losing still. I am going to press out the upper escape wheel setting and see if that makes it better, I’m hoping 

Posted
17 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Also replaced the upper escape wheel jewel/spring/setting

out of curiosity why did you replace the entire setting?

13 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Cock screw is the one that holds the cock down on mainplate, in cases you suspect end stones might be pushing on pivot end( no or very little end shake) you can releive such possible pressure on end stones by loosening the said screw, if the are no end stones, the jewel itself can be pushing on shoulder seat of the pivot.

normally the above answer would be fine except this is a Rolex watch. Rolex is obsessed with end shake so often times they will have procedures to make that adjustment easily especially on the balance bridge.  rather than explaining the procedure I'm attaching a section out of the manual. You'll notice there's a screw specific for adjusting the end shake. If somebody had zero idea what that screw was for an rotated it that would be the problem.

Rolex 3035 regulating screw for balance bridge.JPG

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
49 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

out of curiosity why did you replace the entire setting?

normally the above answer would be fine except this is a Rolex watch. Rolex is obsessed with end shake so often times they will have procedures to make that adjustment easily especially on the balance bridge.  rather than explaining the procedure I'm attaching a section out of the manual. You'll notice there's a screw specific for adjusting the end shake. If somebody had zero idea what that screw was for an rotated it that would be the problem.

Rolex 3035 regulating screw for balance bridge.JPG

I replaced the entire setting partly because I was lazy of replacing just the spring itself because whoever worked on it before had broke half of the spring and left it like that so I decided it was easier just to replace the whole thing instead.

 

I adjust the regulating screw for the balance bridge, and also pushed the setting  in a bit more so the escape wheel has less endshake and seemed to make a huge difference. Within 10 secs.

Posted
2 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Ok so Adjusting the cock screw did help a lot but it is still about 1 minute 45secs losing still. I am going to press out the upper escape wheel setting and see if that makes it better, I’m hoping 

Checking end shake on escape arbour will suffice. You would get zero end shake, if end stones are pushing on escape pivots.

Removal of end stones so to leave escape arbour unbound might create new problem, that is; you want escape wheel and fork pallet jewels level (both in same plane).

You have high percision gears in this piece, so power transfer through out the gear train should feel effortless. 

 Thanks to john's post which shows the design provides an end shake adjustment screw.

Good luck.

 



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Another option is to an old piece of clock mainspring, if you have some thick enough.
    • Thanks guys.  The replacement balance was way too big to fit the watch movement, my point being that it’s definitely not the correct part for this movement.  The spring was similar dimensions, but clearly not close enough to avoid other adjustements.  Yes, I’m aware that springs are usually sold with the balance wheel complete, but its very often possible in my experience to be able to swap out a spring from one balance wheel to another of the same type.  I tried it anyway as it was there in front of me and easy to do. No harm in trying. In the end I’ve repaired the cracked collet and refitted the original balance complete, it’s back in business.  Just a shame I couldn’t identify and buy the correct new part, but this model seems to be fairly lacking in parts data.
    • Good job. 👍 To my eyes, the centre of the coil is about where the red dot is. So a tweak at either of the arrows (as per the Chicago School) should centre it. It's not far off, and if you already have it installed , I'd run it and see how it performs.
    • I was curious about that, and last time I changed the battery I checked and both insulators are definitely there. The little arm that extends up away from the movement to touch the speaker seemed maybe slightly misaligned. I wondered if it was touching something it shouldn’t be, hence my parchment paper experiment. I also considered maybe just removing it as I believe it’s a single screw. Another thought is I have a service manual PDF for it and it has some testing instructions with voltage and other numbers, I might try some of those to see if something is obviously wrong. I see weasol probably posted the same PDF. All that being said, it might just need a service, as several of you have said, which I’d probably try to find a professional for. I’m don’t know that I feel like taking this thing apart too much.
    • So I've been lurking on the internet again and found a rabbit hole to explore. I was able to download 5 pdf's about Soviet watch repair. They're all in Russian and are scanned images, so unlikely to be useful to anyone that doesn't speak the language or is able to use some form of artificial intelligence to translate it. I just thought it might be of interest to some of you.   А.П.Харитончук Устройство и ремонт часов.pdf Д.Д.Карл - Сложные часы и их ремонт.pdf Дональд Де Карль - Руководство ро ремонту часов.pdf Ремонт часов, 1968 - Пинсон.pdf Харинтончук А.П. Устройство и ремонт часов.pdf 6 pdf's*   [A._P._Haritonchuk]_Spravochnaya_kniga_po_remontu_(libcats.org).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...