Jump to content

Seiko 6309 new mainspring problem


Pluto

Recommended Posts

Recently bought a new mainspring from Cousins for a Seiko 6309 (spring code GR2534X). Had to wait a while as this was new stock arriving. This is the spring their database says is for this movement.

Having fitted the spring the end was far too large to fit the arbour and would not wind. Tried tightening but the end of the spring broke off.

Has anyone else had this problem? The spring is clearly not suitable.

Is their an alternative that anyone has fitted that works?

I ended up using a spare I had but it would be nice to know what others have done.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I've used this in the past with good results on 6309A - worth a look.

Equivalent Mainspring ETA 2892a2.pdf

To be honest I find them better than the dedicated "Seiko" mainsprings which tend to have too large a hole in the centre for the arbour so you end up having to try and close it up (and risk breaking it) so the arbour will 'bite'. All you need to do with the ETA version is remember to flip them over when you install (coloured side of disc down instead of up) and they seem to be a better fit for the arbour so no modification required.

Edited by Waggy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
    • When building a new Watch I have tended to use a file to remove the remnants of dial feet that are not needed as many dials come with four feet to accomodate different movements, but this can be a bit messy so now I use this with a great deal more precision as you can use an appropriate bit for the job and keep it very localised.      
×
×
  • Create New...