Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So, I'm planning to start the Watch Repair course by Mark here, and was wondering if anyone has two 6498 movements they might be willing to part with?

I'd just rather not buy a knockoff movement. I looked around on ebay, but not sure what a fair price is I see everything from $30-$900.

Here's a recent one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/303680770480 Would something like that be ok as a way to learn on?

Or this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arnex-pocket-watch-with-Unitas-6498-Incabloc-running-movement/402434371920

 

Posted
4 hours ago, firebynight said:

I'd just rather not buy a knockoff movement. I looked around on ebay, but not sure what a fair price is I see everything from $30-$900

initially to start watch repair it's nice to have a broken watch something you don't actually want to repair. So you can practice taking it apart and putting it back together multiple of times. this is because to really get good at watch repair you need to practice and practicing as you go is okay once you get the basics down but initially need something to practice on that's disposable. usually finding a really cheap American 16 size pocket watch works well.

Then one of the reasons for purchasing the Chinese clones is that we know what the condition is specifically it's running. the reason it's nice to start with a running watch with no problems is that if for some unknown reason it's not running after you taken apart and put it back together it really narrows down whose fault that is.

purchasing these watches off of eBay is problematic let's look at your first link problem solved it sold already. But it's not running the balance is claimed to be good and it's missing a plate screw? Plates screws don't just fall off all by themselves so you have to ask what was somebody doing this watch and it's not running so what is wrong with it?

the next link at least you're getting the whole watch. The description is interesting isn't it? it's running that's a good sign it doesn't keep time maybe that's not really an issue? Then there's the interesting description of audible metallic ping sound. Oh and if you look carefully somebody pushed the regulator to an extreme far position occasionally when they do that though totally screw up the hairspring it's hard to tell in the pictures here. then is that discoloration I see on the steel parts of know that couldn't be almost looks like water spots. Oh and if you look really carefully one of the reasons that might not be running is the regulator is now touching the center wheel.

it used to be on eBay you can find these movements are really cheap I typically didn't used to pay more than $30 each and they were for the most part pretty decent condition. Sometimes regulators got moved sometimes hairsprings were little bend on one occasion the regulator parts it mysteriously fallen off wasn't that weird. But today it's a popular movement anytime someone lists the movement number the price will go up. So basically after look at every single pocket watch movement and see if they'll surely a picture. Sometimes you can guess but if you guess wrong when you don't have a movement picture it may end up with a smaller size watch or worse yet the quartz watch.

then of course you to purchase a brand-new from the wholesale material houses their online. But just because their online at our material house does not mean the price is the same. For instance noticed the discrepancy in price between these two links.

 

http://www.julesborel.com/products/movements-eta-eta-mechanical/ETA-6497-MVT-Watch-Movement

http://www.ofrei.com/page206.html#37980

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would repeat what @nickelsilver says, and even more. I have at leas 10 old thread plates and I have never seen one that will cut like a normal die. I don't know if they are completely worn or have never been sharp enough, but I find them completely useless. And, for the new Indian ones, I have heard only bad things. For sure, if one tries to cut more thread on a winding stem, this hole of the plate is ruined. Further more, I have bad experience with all watch size thread dies that I could buy from the available machine  tool shops here. They could not cut normal thread even on brass rod. The size was significantly smaller and the pitch is like it should be for the claimed size... The thread shape was bad too. I will explain how I do threads. I use lathe that can cut threads and thus I can prepare perfect taps. I use milling attachment instead cutter in the tool post and so I can cut thread even on hardened rod. But I prefer to harden the rod after thread cutting and temper it only to light color change as to have the maximum hardness. Then I make a tap out of it by grinding. I prepare my dies for screw thread cutting with the taps I have prepared as described. In watchmaking, dies exist and are often used that are not cutting, but rather forming the thread. They are like nuts and don't have cutting holes and edges. This kind of dies I prepare and use. You will need soft steel plate , drill a hole in it, then cut thread, then make chamfer on one side, repeat the thread, harden. You can temper just a little or leave untempered, depending of the steel You use. Using such die is with soft steel rod (or completely annealed). Good oil is to be generously applied. The rod has to be with smaller diam than the thread size (about 0.8 - 0.9 x ), the diam is better determined by tries. The rod elongates by the thread forming too. When I have to make screws from harder material like SS, I just cut them on the lathe. You screw needs hardening and tempering to be finished as real screw.  
    • You could make a guide/jig. Cut a slot in a piece of metal approx the same thickness as the screw head, then drill a hole (screw head diameter) in that slot.
    • Tried a SR920W and its completely dead after 3 weeks 🤷‍♂️ 
    • Thanks so much for quick replies. I got some watch repair tools ordered, and will get back with pictures once I removed the back lid and get into it 🙂
    • Welcome to the WRT forum. 
×
×
  • Create New...