Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I found this at a yard sale out of the case with hands and dial already removed and some lose bits.  I was able to find where the parts go but I'm missing a bridge screw and at least one gear.  Does anyone have a tech sheet for this?  How about a good spot to locate parts?  Any general advice?  The movement itself is running well  -9 seconds 240 degrees  0.4 error.

IMG_4103 (2).JPG

IMG_4104 (2).JPG

Posted

Her is what I see obviously is missing. All from the alarm function.

7294 - Alarm setting connection wheel
7292 - Alarm intermediate unlocking wheel
7305 - Coupling yoke for alarm setting

Maybe someone else can spot some more.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

BIG BIG thanks HLS.  Because of your help I was able to find all three pieces on eBay for a total w/shipping of $146.50.  I still need to find a gold second hand but I found a silver one that I could try to gold plate if a gold one doesn't pop up. Now if I can figure out where the new parts go I'll be all set.  If anyone sees any other parts I'm missing or has any advice please let me know. Thanks.

Posted

That was a fast move ordering the parts. The ones I mentioned is put in these places. 
I was trying to pull out some memories out from my head about the wheel which is in the place where the coupling yoke goes (7305), can't remeber it was two pinions on that one, can it be so that the upper part goes of and that one is actually 7294 put on top of the intermediate wheel?

815_Parts.jpg.48024a7b5b37041a8c02f4d74acd37b0.jpg
 

Posted

After a nice dinner and a short snooze, I think the mojo came back.
The part that I previously suspected was in the wrong place, probably are. One can’t really see it from the picture but I don’t think the unlocking wheel bridge (7151) goes on with a setup like this, that part will poke up to much. The bridge should keep the wheels in place nice and flat. 

So, if you pick the pinion off the position where the ring is in the picture you should have an intermediate wheel left in place underneath it. There is a small hole in the pin holding the wheel in place.
The slot milled beside the wheel houses the pointy spring part on the 7305. The smaller of the holes on the 7305 goes in the same place as the intermediate wheel so you have to lift that away when installing the 7305. When the 7305 is in place you put the wheel back.
The 7292 is put in the hole with the flange on the 7305. To finish everything up you place the unlocking wheel bridge (7151) on the whole wheel train. The pointy part on the 7151 should point towards the winding stem. The 7151 is then screwed in place by three screws where off one goes into the hole where the 7294 now is placed.

815_Parts_2.jpg.998acacf5a0cf46ddf793a7d2e2bd525.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted

@HSL Couple of more snooze and this snooze alarm will actually ring.

@markr will you take pictures as you go, how you finally reassemble this with success is a valuable walkthrough. 

Good luck.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

That all makes perfect sense.  I can't wait to get the parts in and try it.  Thanks all I will keep you posted when parts arrive.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well as soon as parts came in I had to move so project was put on hold but now I'm wearing my Memovox.  I still need to find a second hand.  Thanks for all your help.  I could not have done it without you.

IMG_4108 (2).JPG

IMG_4111 (2).JPG

IMG_4115 (2).JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Great project! 
 

Id very much like to have one of these old alarm watches. This, the omega or another. Great job getting it going. 
 

If you check the pinion size you can probably find a generic gold hand the right size, or slightly off, to be broached, or closed in a pin vice, to fit perfectly. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks.  I found a second hand on eBay.  It's on it's way.  I also have a gold cricket in my large pile of to do stuff.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would repeat what @nickelsilver says, and even more. I have at leas 10 old thread plates and I have never seen one that will cut like a normal die. I don't know if they are completely worn or have never been sharp enough, but I find them completely useless. And, for the new Indian ones, I have heard only bad things. For sure, if one tries to cut more thread on a winding stem, this hole of the plate is ruined. Further more, I have bad experience with all watch size thread dies that I could buy from the available machine  tool shops here. They could not cut normal thread even on brass rod. The size was significantly smaller and the pitch is like it should be for the claimed size... The thread shape was bad too. I will explain how I do threads. I use lathe that can cut threads and thus I can prepare perfect taps. I use milling attachment instead cutter in the tool post and so I can cut thread even on hardened rod. But I prefer to harden the rod after thread cutting and temper it only to light color change as to have the maximum hardness. Then I make a tap out of it by grinding. I prepare my dies for screw thread cutting with the taps I have prepared as described. In watchmaking, dies exist and are often used that are not cutting, but rather forming the thread. They are like nuts and don't have cutting holes and edges. This kind of dies I prepare and use. You will need soft steel plate , drill a hole in it, then cut thread, then make chamfer on one side, repeat the thread, harden. You can temper just a little or leave untempered, depending of the steel You use. Using such die is with soft steel rod (or completely annealed). Good oil is to be generously applied. The rod has to be with smaller diam than the thread size (about 0.8 - 0.9 x ), the diam is better determined by tries. The rod elongates by the thread forming too. When I have to make screws from harder material like SS, I just cut them on the lathe. You screw needs hardening and tempering to be finished as real screw.  
    • You could make a guide/jig. Cut a slot in a piece of metal approx the same thickness as the screw head, then drill a hole (screw head diameter) in that slot.
    • Tried a SR920W and its completely dead after 3 weeks 🤷‍♂️ 
    • Thanks so much for quick replies. I got some watch repair tools ordered, and will get back with pictures once I removed the back lid and get into it 🙂
    • Welcome to the WRT forum. 
×
×
  • Create New...