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Polishing.

Robbeaus
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Robbeaus New Member

Robbeaus

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I have a bench mounted spinning wheel polisher, with a number of pads and various preparations for polishing metal parts from my car repair days.

i was thinking that I could use this as part of cleaning up metal parts (Scratches etc). I also have abrasion wheels. I have seen dedicated wheel spinning polishers advertised dedicated for watches (with 3 disks of various grade set side by side).

Any advice would be appreciated as always 

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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1 hour ago, Robbeaus said:

Any advice would be appreciated as always 

Best advice e is, use judiciously. Learn how to stay away from edges and accomplish the most withe the less effort.

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OCB Member

OCB

Posted
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I’m looking to start polishing.

Goal is to polish/take out scratches from my own collection, and from time to time do a favour for a friend.

What kind of price would a bench polisher + pads for a hobbyist cost, and where to get one?

Advice noted from here and elsewhere about correct compounds - with one head dedicated per compound, less is more etc.

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OCB Member

OCB

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49 minutes ago, jdm said:

Foredom TM-2 form AliX is perfectly suited and very cheap.

Thanks sir!

Bit slow on the uptake on AliX - took me a good couple of minutes to figure it out :)

i see something for around 40 euro, with a few accessories. Looks like a good start.

 

 

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MyRetroWatches Member

MyRetroWatches

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I finish loads of cases, I have videos on it from a hobbyist standpoint on my Youtube channel.  I  have an abrasives background too. 
You will need at least 4 grades of compound and Menzerna being the best there is in my opinion.  You can purchase small slices of this from Cousins or a company called The Polishing shop.    I dont have info to hand but basically the polishing shop break it down into understandable grades / colours.  I use a grey to get scratches out on a sisal mop wheel,  this is made out of the material that dart boards are made from.  this in combination to a high cutting compound makes light work of surface wounds.  Be aware you have to be careful with your edges as this can whip them off quickly if you have not used kapton tape or similar to protect adjoining surfaces.   
After that I use a green menzerna which is still abrasive but less so and starting to gloss.  this needs to be used with a stitched cotton wheel (not loose)   the stitching gives the wheel more rigidity.  once you are done with that stage its then a light blue compound with a loose stitched mop, these look like flaps of cotton.   The blue compound is now hardly cutting and just glossing the surface, hence the soft and loose cotton.   At this stage the workpiece will be really shiny and nice but you have not finished yet!   

Last is a pink compound with a soft open cotton wheel, these wheels are all fluffy and make a considerable mess when using for the first time so be aware. this is a messy process!    soft cotton wheel and pink will give you the final lustre and then its just a case of ultrasonic or hot water and a toothbrush to clean all the residue off. 
I demonstrate how I do it on various videos from a small spindle wheels on my setup or even using a dremel which most people have.
 

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OCB Member

OCB

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Thx Jim(?)/MyRetroWatches.

I have watched some of your YT videos in the past - although I don’t think I’ve seen any where you use a powered bench polisher?

I do remember when you buff/polish/repair a case by hand - all due respect for doing that by hand! Not my cup of tea though :)

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