Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All, i have a large antique cuckoo clock that on the winding train was running for 2 days but on the chiming / cuckoo train would only run for a day just about, as it needed a service i have taken it apart to find that although the barrels are the same size the cuckoo spring is a lot smaller . the winding train spring is height 22mm , thickness 0.45, length 176 cm, barrel dia 44. The cuckoo train is H 19mm , T 0.50mm, L 160cm. i am assuming they should both be the same size and that someone has done that as a quick fix rather than fit the same size spring, so i just need to know can i refit with a spring of the same as the winding train.

thanks tony

 

Posted

Hi Tony  What make of clock is it as most of the cuckoo clocks I have worked on were chain driven even the ones with musical boxes, These were the true blackforest types. Not had my hands on any spring driven types yet.  The general rule of thumb is the larger spring drives the chime as it carries the greater load.  Are they barrel enclosed springs or open coil loop end springs.  We will require pictures of the movement and the makers name so as to identify the parts.  The Blackforest clocks were in different sizes and were either 8 day or ! day  REGULA were the common makers along with HUBERT HERR.

Posted

Hi Tony  The only reference I have come across with spring driven cuckoo clocks are ones with Junghans movements in Makers logo  a star with a J in the middle.and some times the word Junghan surrounding it.

Posted
On 1/11/2020 at 5:39 PM, watchweasol said:

Hi Tony  The only reference I have come across with spring driven cuckoo clocks are ones with Junghans movements in Makers logo  a star with a J in the middle.and some times the word Junghan surrounding it.

Hi Watchweasol, ithink the label says teutonia clock company. The spring and barrel on the left are the chiming train ones.

IMG_1903.JPG

IMG_1931.JPG

IMG_1936.JPG

IMG_1937.JPG

IMG_1938.JPG

IMG_1939.JPG

IMG_1940.JPG

Posted

My advice is to measure both barrels and buy two new springs. The two old spring’s one looks tired and the other is way too short.   

Teutonia Clock Company is German.

What you have is a very nice German genuine cuckoo clock and from what I can see a very nice wooden case. 

Posted

Hi Tony   Its a nice clock,  and from what I can see the springs look un molested Ie shortened as the ends are as made, as stated the greater spring fits the chime train as it requires more force. A good clean and polish will make all the difference. Give the barrels a good polish and clean/lube springs.It will make a fine clock.

The Clock is from the late 1800s  by Philip Haas although there is no trademark which is a rabbit. Some of his clocks had the crutch support in the shape of a rabbit , some of his clocks used the  PHS logo  Philip Haas and Sone

The company closed in 1920 although  Teutonia.Hoeter & cie  were founded in 1872 by August Hoeter. 

Posted

When a spring is out of its barrel and un-wound it should be uncoiled in an even way. The spring on the left clearly shows distortion and some coils are nearly touching, see arrows. This can also cause irregular time keeping. With two new springs both sides will run down evenly as it would have done in its original condition.   

IMG_1940.thumb.JPG.a71f2160d92d9d3c7f198f615051084a.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

My advice is to measure both barrels and buy two new springs. The two old spring’s one looks tired and the other is way too short.   

Teutonia Clock Company is German.

What you have is a very nice German genuine cuckoo clock and from what I can see a very nice wooden case. 

yes it is the short one that was in the chiming /cuckoo train, i have now ordered 2 new springs from cousins based on the size of the going train spring. thank you for the advice.

Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

When a spring is out of its barrel and un-wound it should be uncoiled in an even way. The spring on the left clearly shows distortion and some coils are nearly touching, see arrows. This can also cause irregular time keeping. With two new springs both sides will run down evenly as it would have done in its original condition.   

IMG_1940.thumb.JPG.a71f2160d92d9d3c7f198f615051084a.jpg

that makes sense to me as that is the chiming spring and it would chime and cuckoo ok for about half a day and then it would stick with the cuckoo staying out.

Posted
2 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Tony   Its a nice clock,  and from what I can see the springs look un molested Ie shortened as the ends are as made, as stated the greater spring fits the chime train as it requires more force. A good clean and polish will make all the difference. Give the barrels a good polish and clean/lube springs.It will make a fine clock.

The Clock is from the late 1800s  by Philip Haas although there is no trademark which is a rabbit. Some of his clocks had the crutch support in the shape of a rabbit , some of his clocks used the  PHS logo  Philip Haas and Sone

The company closed in 1920 although  Teutonia.Hoeter & cie  were founded in 1872 by August Hoeter. 

thanks for the info about the history of the maker, i am going to fit two new springs anyway.

Posted

Hi Tony  a sound Idea, although they look genuine they are tired, and there is no telling when they were fitted and if they were the correct springs, be a shame to rebuild and still have a problem.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...