Jump to content

Replacing Glass In Rolex 1675


Recommended Posts

Well then there are these:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bezel-fitting-die-set?code=B30545

 

Or you could seek out a local engineering company that might be willing to cut one down for you in their lathe, or any local clock workshop should have one, they may help you.

These are pretty good value Mark, thanks for the heads up! :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe I can find someone with a lathe. Which diameter die did you modify?

 

I modified four different sizes as this is for other Rolex models too then I painted a green band around them so I could easily identify them in the box of dies I have. If you measure the outside diameter of the glass you are fitting and choose the die accordingly you will be fine. And, naturally, the depth needs to be at least the height of the glass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you guys, here's the odissey I went through to get this job done: The watch came originally with a plain glass, (no magnifier) so I tried to track down a correct one with the magnifier (ref 714AWD) I first got one on ebay for 43$ shipped. After some time I decided to take the watch to a watchmaker to install it, probably the glass was ruined by using the kind of press in the picture and applying too much pressure, at first it was even inserted unevenly, it was taller on one side. Anyway the glass developed some kind of tiny cracks inside. I tried to polish it but it was not good anymore.

So I tracked down a new glass and this time I found one on ebay for 19,99$, took it to another watchmaker, this guy managed to crack the new one and reinsert the old one, he also told me that the one that cracked was the old one, that he cracked it while removing, infact he cracked the new one, I am sure as the old one had a tiny sign on the inside and it was still there. Then I got fed up about these people, tracked a new one which this time I paid 33,95$, bought some tools and replaced it by myself. I used a budget screw type press. 

 

mOmpVhlh2_4Veq14E0Ee52Q.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi chriz,

 

That is my first press, does the job but it is wobbly and not very even. All that said, it has been my workhorse for quite sometimes. Now I got better ones and I can tell it makes a lot of a difference...no more cracked crystals and better/faster performance.

 

I'm glad you were able to fix the watch. Good job!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...