Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone hope the holidays were joyful for all.

 

I am currently servicing an ETA 2824-2   and have hit a roadblock.  I need to put the watch in beat and the hairspring collet used is something I have not seen before.  Rather than a standard round collet or the V type this movement has a collet that resembles a four leaf clover and no slot.  I assume there is some special tool that can be used to adjust this but I have not been able to locate it.  My only other thought was to take an old stake and grind down the sides to make a tool.  

 

Any advise would be most appreciated 

 

Sincerely,

Jim

Posted

Found this on the net hope it helps

 

You can regulate a ETA 2824-2 by turning the eccentric screw (red arrow). For co**BLEEP**r regulation, you can shift the green arrow, but if you shift it noticeably, the rate changes significantly (so move it with caution). Do not touch the blue part as it changes the beat error, and you won't be able to correct it unless you have a Timegrapher.

73.jpg

Posted

Thank you for the advise.

 

I am using a timegrapher   the beat error is over 6   ms   and moving the blue arrow only gets me down to 4  the amplitude is also horrible    What I need to do is move the hairspring to get the watch at least close to in beat then I can fine tune with the blue arrow above.   But the collet holding the hairspring is not standard  so it appears a special tool is needed.   Just was hoping someone has put one of these in beat before   :-)

 

Sincerely

Jim

Posted

I presume at some stage the hairspring has been removed from the balance for a large out of beat error. If has not it might be worth checking that it is actually a beat error. Mark has a vid showing how to check this see below: If the hairspring has got to be moved someone for sure on this forum will have the answer.

 

Posted

Jaycey   Hey thanks for the post  I wish I knew if that was what I am looking for do you know if that fits 2824-2?

 

Thanks for the post  at least i am going in the correct direction.

 

Sincerely,

Jim

Posted

I presume at some stage the hairspring has been removed from the balance for a large out of beat error. If has not it might be worth checking that it is a beat error.Low amplitude can also be caused by damaged jewels or damaged balance staff. Mark has a vid showing how to check this see below: If the hairspring has got to be moved someone for sure on this forum will have the answer.

 

Posted

Jaycey   Hey thanks for the post  I wish I knew if that was what I am looking for do you know if that fits 2824-2?

 

Thanks for the post  at least i am going in the correct direction.

 

Sincerely,

Jim

 

Ahh I see, no that tool I linked to is not for that.

Posted

I am fairly convinced it is beat error typically ETA movements run low amplitude less than 200 new even the clone movements are higher, This one is in the 150 range  but I believe the amplitude is off because the beater error is so extreme.  I have played with this movement for a while now  lol  I feel confident if I can get it close everything will come into place.  I just need help with that collet.  Notice the nice slot in Marks video   BTW the watch was cleaned and serviced pivot ends are good jewels are fine.   Hope Mark chimes in  :D 

 

Sincerely,

Jim

Posted

I have searched the net and could not find any specific tool for this style of stud. A stiff pair of brass tweezers might give enough purchase to move it but this can be risky so if it was me I would use the safest way possible and mark where it is positioned then remove the hairspring using the normal methods & re-fit to see if it improves or not.

Posted

Out of curiosity, in the diagram above, what does the arm that adjusts the beat error (marked with the blue arrow) actually act upon to make adjustments?

Posted

I think this is the tool   I was hoping Mark would be able to confirm    once I measure the diameter of the balance staff 

 

Hoping

 

Jim

post-345-0-51326300-1420494678_thumb.jpg

Posted

Out of curiosity, in the diagram above, what does the arm that adjusts the beat error (marked with the blue arrow) actually act upon to make adjustments?

It's the anchor point for the end of the hairspring.

Posted

jaycey    The Blue arrow points to the stud end of the hairspring  as you move it one way or the other it changes the center point of where the balance roller jewel is striking.  This is the beat error adjustment as noted above.

 

Sincerely,

Jim 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry I didn't come on this thread sooner Jim, but it looks like you got a good result in the end.

  • Like 1
Posted

What Geo posted was very helpful.   I bought an etachron tool  and ended up adjusting the regulator pins.  I found if they are not aligned correctly it also causes the watch to read out of beat.  Once I had those adjusted properly i was able to use the beat adjustment and affect a change.  I never did need to move the hairspring collet.   

 

Thanks again everyone

 

Sincerely,

Jim

Posted

What Geo posted was very helpful.   I bought an etachron tool  and ended up adjusting the regulator pins.  I found if they are not aligned correctly it also causes the watch to read out of beat.  Once I had those adjusted properly i was able to use the beat adjustment and affect a change.  I never did need to move the hairspring collet.   

 

Thanks again everyone

 

Sincerely,

Jim

 

That makes sense. Well done :)

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi All, I’m having a hard time finding a balance assembly or even a working donor movement for a Gruen 330.  Any leads appreciated.   Gruen doesn’t stamp the caliber number of the movement but lust in the case back.   
    • Why do you think this is Fontainemelon ?  The balance staff you will need to source separately.  But first it's important to accurately identify what you have there. Research Ebauches Sa, see who was in group, to find the brand that made this movement. 
    • Hi Watchrepairtalk, I have some questions about part sourcing I was hoping someone here might be able to help with. I'm working on an FHF 180 movement with a broken balance staff, broken regulator pins, and damaged cap jewels (both top and bottom). Some Googling says that this is similar to other FHF calibers like 150s, 160s, 180s and so on but I can't figure out what the functional difference is between these movements.  Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to acquire a donor FHF 150 or similar (with no shock protection) and use parts from that or would it be smarter to source replacements individually? Also are there any sources someone could recommend to get bulk cap jewels like this? Thank you for the help!
    • Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
×
×
  • Create New...