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Unitas Calibre 6380 Picture Service Walkthrough


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Unitas Calibre 6380 Disassembly Picture Walkthrough
please order the pictures by name in ascending order!

Servicing my first Unitas movement other than the widely popular calibre 6497/98, but instead a calibre 6325, I tasted blood and got wondering if there were any Unitas movements having a calendar complication, and indeed there were! This curiosity led me to the 6380 calibre which seems very similar to the 6325.

Once I’ve cleaned and assembled my 6380, I’ll post a link to my assembly picture walkthrough (including lubrication suggestions) in a later post in this thread.

I’ve really taken all Unitas movements that I’ve serviced to my heart. They are easy to work with as the parts are large and few, the design is very traditional - like a school book on how mechanical watches work - and they seem very reliable and robust. My timing machine for these movements has always shown great results. Perhaps I’ve been lucky but it's beginning to feel like a pattern.
 

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    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. I have a varimatic that went  out of sequence because it’s hydronic oil ran very low. Must admit it’s still in my garage just know time to fix it. Purchased a cheap Indian Junta/ sonic Pearl as a stop gap a few years ago and it still performs perfectly so no incentive to fix the Varimatic. 
    • The plate is OK, thanks. It seems the answer to my question is that this is a 'hack' & for me another reminder that in general, one won't be the first person to be tinkering with an old timepiece!. As you day, I've been fortunate to have gotten some good advice and, just as important, encouragement. I've been lucky then not to have the balance spring break as a result of my novice 'ministrations' - but I did remember to 'stroke' rather than bend per se. The clock is of sentimental value to the owner so I'm relieved to have now got it running to time with the support & encourage of forum members like yourself.
    • Recently purchased a L&R Varimatic knowing that the piston does not fully rise in the cylinder. The likely cause is air in the system. The manual calls for using a bleeder cup, which is as rare as hen's teeth.Does anyone have any experience with this issue and if so, how did they resolve it?
    • Thanks ww, its maybe not as much of a bodge trick that i thought it was. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.  It would be nice if you told us a little about yourself.
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