Jump to content

1971 Timex 21 Jewel Date Wheel Issue


Recommended Posts

Hello Vintage Timex Fans,

I picked up this 1971 Timex 21 Jewel (Model 75) a while back and started working on it this weekend. After winding and letting down the mainspring a few times, and lightly oiling, it's running like a champ! I have a replacement crystal ready to go as well. The only problem is that the date wheel keeps slipping off. I've already reopened and disassembled the watch several times to set the date wheel back in place. I've also wiped down the edge of the date wheel and cleaned the pegs that it rests on. I hold the dial down against it pretty tightly when I seat the movement back in place, too. Yet each time I have everything back together, a slight rap, turn, or even pushing the crown back in knocks the date wheel off again. The date wheel shape looked pretty uniform throughout, but I went ahead and swapped out a date wheel from a Model 25 just in case, but still have the same problem. Any advice would be appreciated.

The attached pic is the watch in its original condition. I'm guessing the previous owner stopped wearing it when the date wheel came off. 

IMG_1909.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oops. My apologies for breaking protocol and not introducing myself first. I've been a member and following the site for almost a year now, but this is my first posting. I've developed an interest in watches over the last few years, and have a special love for vintage timepieces. Since I live on a budget, I mostly pick up more affordable non-working watches and have learned to work on them by reading outstanding forums like this and a variety of other sites and books. I'm especially drawn to vintage Timex watches, and have been amazed at the variety and beauty of their mechanical offerings from the 50s through the 70s. They can be a little finnicky to fix sometimes, though. I'm hoping the wealth of experience from the watch repair talk members can push me in the right direction. Many thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi JerseyMo, Thanks for taking an interest in this. Here are 2 pics of the dial side movement with and without the date wheel. The date wheel slipped off entirely when I removed the dial so I just set it back into place for the photo. This is how it would look before I reattach the dial, so feel free to point out anything I missed.

A separate, but possibly related question I have is whether there is any way to realign the date wheel if it's not centered in the date window. When I reattach the dial to this movement, the date shows a little high in the date window (that is, before the date wheel slips off again), so maybe that's another symptom of whatever is causing the problem.

Thanks and best regards.

IMG_1988.jpg

IMG_1989.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you notice any play in the date wheel when it sit atop the four pillars?   Also check that the detent spring fits up tight to the notches on the date wheel.  You can test the date advance when the dial is off.  make note of how the small brass wheel turns and that little pin pushes the wheel.  When you place the dial back on you can try to align the date window. that is about the only adjustment there is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the good advice, JerseyMo. I checked everything out as you suggested, and also went ahead and swapped in another Model 25 date wheel just in case. So far, so good! Attached are some pics of the watch on both a vintage expansion bracelet and a sporty plastic/resin watchband. The date still rides a little high in the window, but I can live with that.

Cheers and many thanks for the assist.

IMG_2018.jpg

IMG_2021.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol. Yes, always happy to learn from your wealth of experience. As for the Timex day date watches, I love them when I get them working well. I have a bunch of Timex Model 27s that need fixing still sitting on my shelf. At least half of them have some kind of day or date wheel issue. I usually need to set aside a quiet, long weekend when I want to tackle one of those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...