Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So, I got my seconds hand looking a bit more how I wanted it to look. But when I put it on and wound the watch it is very erratic and not moving smoothly. I’ve since stripped it down again and checked the teeth on the pinion and the wheel that drives it, I thought there might have been some debris lodged. I did wonder whether the pipe on the hand might have been binding inside the cannon pinion but it doesn’t seem like it. It doesn’t seem to affect the running of the watch either it doesn’t stop or falter. Any suggestions?

Posted

I watched the video and is there a spring providing tension to the seconds pinion? If so, check that it is tight enough to provide pressure. 

J

Posted

There is no tensioner spring and I did try some lube. The only thing that I can see is where the pinion sits on the bridge as it passes through the cannon pinion. The face is a bit worn and uneven. I tried a tiny amount of oil there, it seems no better than when dry.  I wonder if this is why there was no seconds hand fitted to it, maybe it’s something that bugged the previous owner of goodness knows how many years ago, so they had it taken off?

Posted
9 hours ago, Davey57 said:

The only thing that I can see is where the pinion sits on the bridge as it passes through the cannon pinion. The face is a bit worn and uneven. 

You'll have to disassemble and troubleshoot to get to the root of the cause. Can you take a picture of the area you've mentioned?

J

Posted

To get to the root of the cause, you may have to disassemble . But before you do that, I gather this is a replacement sweep hand? What is the movement  make and caliber and are you sure this is the correct size sweep hand for the movement. If the watch is running steadily while the sweep hand stutters and there is no tension spring, then the seep second pipe  is either the wrong size, or it was squeezed onto the pivot....can you provide more info?

Posted

It was the wrong pipe size for the pivot. I gave it a gentle squeeze until it gripped just enough to hold the hand in place. I can also take some pictures and try to show the wear I mentioned. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Davey57 said:

It was the wrong pipe size for the pivot. I gave it a gentle squeeze until it gripped just enough to hold the hand in place. I can also take some pictures and try to show the wear I mentioned. 

OK, so the issue is the pipe on the hand. I've had this happen before, and I suggest you get the correct size hand to avoid problems later. Even if you get the hand to stay on and tick correctly, it will eventually fall off--usually while you're wearing the watch.

J

Edited by noirrac1j
Posted

What makes the hand behave so erratically?  Is it just that occasionally the pivot is spinning a tiny amount until it finds a grip on the tube?  Finding the correct sized hand seems to a bit of a hit and miss affair so far. I measured the pivot to be .21, I found a second hand from a Seiko that is quoted as having that size. It was far too small so I ordered a .23 and a .25. The .23 I received was still way too small and the .25 simply dropped onto the pipe.  Many thanks for your help by the way.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Davey57 said:

What makes the hand behave so erratically?  Is it just that occasionally the pivot is spinning a tiny amount until it finds a grip on the tube?  Finding the correct sized hand seems to a bit of a hit and miss affair so far. I measured the pivot to be .21, I found a second hand from a Seiko that is quoted as having that size. It was far too small so I ordered a .23 and a .25. The .23 I received was still way too small and the .25 simply dropped onto the pipe.  Many thanks for your help by the way.

Yes, you've got it right, The pipe wobbles a bit on the pivot until there's friction at which point it grabs and ticks, and when it reaches a loose spot it stops, etc. etc. Aftermarket hands are usually tight, but what is the make and caliber?

J

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
    • One of the problems with trying to Photograph Phils things are that his enjoyment was building these things so they tended to E falls on what will see if I can find some earlier pictures or any pictures I wasn't even sure because I was looking for that specific picture for somebody else and even it got the last version and that would have been the last version. You will note that he put the indexing on something that he could unscrew it or whatever and it can slide back out of the way so the rest of the lathe can be used as a lathe. With the lathe cut are actually coming down from the top I was there once where he demonstrated how to cut a pivot with the setup it was really beautiful. Older set up if I remember it's not a worm gear assembly in the thing in between the stepping motor and the holding block I believe this particular one was like a 100 to 1 gear ratio. Earlier version with watchmaker's lathe. Even looks like he is the watchmakers bed and then switch to something he made. Then I do have other pictures and things of the rotary stage in use. In the raw so if you tube videos here is an example of one were somebody's mounting a three jaw chuck. At one time there were available on eBay they were not cheap but if you're patient like I was I found one cheap on eBay. After you watch the video it look at his other videos he is a whole bunch of other examples of the same rotary stage. That I do know there are other pictures examples and possibly videos you just have to track them down. One of the minor issues of finding this particular tech sheet for the unit is I believe it was a custom manufacturer and the company change their name but I remember the new name here's a link to the company https://www.ondrivesus.com/rino-mechanical-components                
    • Escapement adjusting always interesting and depending upon the reference always confusing. Okay maybe it's not always confusing but it does lead to confusion. I have a PDF below it's actually a whole bunch of separate stuff including a hand out that came from a lecture that's on you tube. Then from that we get this image Consequences of doing things especially if you do things out of order or you do things for the wrong reason. Oh and even if the watches working I made the mistake one so showing my boss how tweaking the banking pins on a full plate on the timing machine made the amplitude get better and now he thinks that's what they're for and I don't think a fully grasped exactly what horn clearance means. Consequence of doing things. Notice what it says about opening and closing the banking pins and total lock? So yes I've had that on a full plate where it won't unlock at all and that's the banking pins or a combination of things basically. So banking pins unfortunately get moved. One of the ways to tell if it's been moved is the look straight down at the end of the fork with the balance wheel removed. Power on the fork push at the one side look at it push it to the other side also look at it and compare anything with the center reference the balance jewel and see if both sides of the same. No guarantee after the same there in the right place but at least are the same typically when people play with things one side will be way off from the other because they had no idea what they were doing at all because of course it's a full plate and you really have to paying attention and even then there's still hard to do. Then the other thing that comes up like it shows below is people often adjust the banking pins to do all those other things as opposed to horn clearance which is all that it's therefore and maybe bonus Guard pin clearance although you're supposed to deal with the guard pin is a separate thing like single roller gets bent in Or out or sometimes physically gets moved in and out. Some full plates older escapement's typically pallet forks held together with screws and you can actually unscrew and move the entire assembly in Or out more complications to deal with.     Escapement handout wostep nscc.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...